Color-coding: Blue and green tattoo ink hues prohibited in EU

15 Feb 2023 --- The transitional restriction of blue 15:3 and green 7 pigments used in tattoo inks and permanent makeup, under the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) chemicals regulation of the European Union (EU) is now over. The transitional exemption was instated to allow the industry to develop alternatives to these substances.

The regulation banned about 4,000 substances from being used in tattoo inks and permanent makeup from January 2022. 

The restriction also requires that the dye mixtures include information such as the words “mixture for tattooing or permanent makeup”; a reference number to uniquely identify the batch and a list of ingredients.

The European Commission (EC) outlines that exposure to soluble substances in tattoo ink over an extended period pose a risk to human health.

“In addition, metabolism of the colorants in the skin, decomposition due to solar radiation exposure and laser irradiation may also lead to the release of hazardous chemicals from the area of the body where the tattoo or permanent make-up is located,” notes the Commission regulation.

In related news, the UK government investigated the purported health and safety risks of certain tattoo pigments following the large-scale ban in the EU in January 2022. Around two-thirds of colors ordinarily used by tattoo artists have been banned.

AEV administered rules
The Environmental Administration (AEV) advises tattoo studios to “strictly ensure” that the tattoo and permanent makeup mixtures comply with the REACH Regulation.

The AEV agents will carry out controls during the year to monitor the compliance of tattoo inks with the regulation. Sector professionals are alerted that “this derogation is no longer applicable since January 4 2023”.

According to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), the health risks of chemical-related concerns have been analyzed and regulated at the EU level to protect citizens.ECHA’s aim is not to ban tattooing but to make the colors used in tattoos and permanent makeup safe. 

The restriction covers, for example, chemicals that cause cancer or genetic mutations and chemicals that are toxic to reproduction, including skin sensitizers and irritants. “The aim is not to ban tattooing but to make the colors used in tattoos and permanent makeup safer,” the agency states.

In other industry-related news, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a program from Breast Cancer Prevention Partners, published a list of top beauty brands featuring entrepreneurs making safer beauty products free of toxic ingredients linked to breast cancer that disproportionately impact Black women.

ECHA recently published the draft Community Rolling Action Plan consisting of 24 substances suspected of posing a risk to human health or the environment, of which seven are cosmetic ingredients subject to evaluation.

Adverse reactions to ink
Chronic allergic reactions and other inflammatory skin reactions from tattoo and permanent makeup inks are expected to decrease due to the restriction. More severe effects of the chemicals in these inks, such as harm to DNA or the reproductive system, could also decrease.

Meanwhile, the UK government is updating its cosmetics regulations following new rulings around the EC’s Cosmetic Products Regulation. Changes will include banning a chemical commonly used for skin-lightening, fragrances used in cosmetics and some toys, including methyl heptine carbonate, atranol and chloratranol.

Tattoos as makeup
Earlier this year, L’Oréal invested in Prinker Korea, a micro-printing start-up, to further research the technology of temporary tattoos, especially for enhancing eyebrows. The corporate venture fund Business Opportunities for L’Oreal Development (Bold) carried out the financial move.

Société Bic acquired the semi-permanent tattoo company Inkbox for US$65 million to strengthen its position in the growing “skin creative” industry. Inkbox’s attitude toward the body as a canvas will lead to a new category in Bic, “skin merch.” 

Edited by Inga de Jong