EU Chemicals Agency calls for evaluation of potentially risky cosmetic substances for CoRAP 2023 to 2025

10 Jan 2023 --- The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has published the draft Community Rolling Action Plan (CoRAP) that consists of 24 substances suspected of posing a risk to human health or the environment, of which seven are cosmetic ingredients subject to evaluation.

The cosmetic substances of concern are sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate, 2-ethylhexylal, tris[2-chloro-1-(chloromethyl)ethyl] phosphate and benzaldehyde. Others include 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, diethyl ether, sodium hydroxymethylene sulfoxylate and carbon black, CI 77266.

The substances are selected by EU member states and the ECHA, which will be assessed from 2023 until 2025.

The draft plan has already been submitted to Member State Competent Authorities and the ECHA Member State Committee on November 3. An opinion of the draft CoRAP is to be shared in February. Depending on the opinion, ECHA will adopt and publish the CoRAP for 2023-2025 on March 21.

First-in-line
Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate has been selected for evaluation this year.

INCI Beauty reveals that the ingredient functions as a UV absorber by protecting the cosmetic product against UV rays. However, the draft highlights its concern  that the product may be “very” persistent and very mobile (vPvM) and causing “other environmental hazard(s).” 

Moreover, sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate has a wide dispersive and consumer use, having a cumulative effect due to its exposure in water reservoirs and drinking water, outlines the draft.The substances are selected by EU member states and the ECHA, which will be assessed from 2023 until 2025.

2024 outlook
2-Ethylhexyl or 3,3’-[methylenebis(oxymethylene)]bisheptane is subject to assessment in 2024. 

PubChem reports that the substance is used as a fragrance component or a solvent in cosmetics. 

However, 2-ethylhexyl is suspected of being reprotoxic and having PBT (persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity)-wide dispersive use by ECHA. Therefore, the substance may cause risk to the exposed – consumer, workers and the environment.

Additionally, tris[2-chloro-1-(chloromethyl)ethyl] phosphate will also be evaluated in 2024, which has been identified as a potential endocrine disruptor. It is also included in Annex II and has been banned in cosmetics.

The last cosmetic substance to be evaluated next year is benzaldehyde. 

INCI Beauty identifies benzaldehyde as a denaturant mainly added to cosmetics containing ethyl alcohol. It is also a masking agent that reduces the base product’s smell or taste. Moreover, it is used as a fragrant and flavoring agent.

Despite its uses, the CoRAP draft flags that it may be mutagenic and is widely exposed to consumers and workers.

In the next two years
In 2025, diethyl ether will be evaluated based on its carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic potential. Moreover, other hazard-based concerns will be considered. The substance is also flagged as being widely in use. 

PubChem identifies several uses of diethyl ether, such as in cleaning  and household care products  such as floor cleaners and pre-moistened wipes.In addition, it is also used in personal care in hairstyling products like sprays and in makeup such as foundation and concealers.In the draft CoRAP 2023-2025, seven substances are used in cosmetics.

Diethyl ether is also used as a solvent for waxes, fats, oils and perfumes, continues PubChem.

The second chemical to be assessed in two years is sodium hydroxymethylene sulfoxylate – suspected to also be carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic. It is also used widely and may carry exposure risks. The ingredient is used as a bleaching agent.

Lastly, carbon black, CI 77266, is a dye used in temporary tattoos, semi-permanent varnish, nail polish, eyeliner and kajal. However, the CoRAP draft underlines its carcinogenic and reprotoxic potential and can be risky for health due to cumulative exposure to consumers and workers.

Overall, there are six new substances in the draft CoRAP compared to the 2022 to 2024 CoRAP. Five will be evaluated this year, and 19 will be divided between 2024 and 2025.

“By publishing this draft now, ECHA wishes to inform the stakeholders of the progress made and to facilitate early communication between the involved registrants and the relevant evaluating member state competent authority,” shares the agency. 

By Venya Patel