Functional makeup launches and “skinification” of hair care blur lines between beauty categories

14 Feb 2023 --- The lines between beauty categories are increasingly blurred, with emerging products on the market crossing the boundaries of makeup and skincare for functional benefits. According to the latest trend report by machine intelligence platform Spate, other notable developments include the “skinfication” of the hair category – focalizing scalp care – which includes sun protection products for healthy tresses.

“With more ‘will they or won't they’ tension than a couple of star-crossed lovers in an HBO special, consumer searches in 2022 have vacillated between beauty-obsessed and not. The uncertain economy is to blame for the fluctuating consumer sentiment,” remarks Yarden Horwitz, co-founder of Spate.

Marrying cosmetics and skincare
The prominence of makeup-related terms across trending skincare claims emphasizes the blurring of the line between skincare and makeup, suggest the Spate report authors. With consumers searching for tinted sunscreens and bronzing skincare drops, brands can stand out with innovative hybrid products. 

The prominence of makeup-related terms across trending skincare claims emphasizes the blurring of the line between skincare and makeup.The search for product formats such as liquid, airbrush and stick alongside mature skin makeup offer insights into the kind of textures that this consumer is seeking.

“Currently, L’Oréal is the only branded search alongside mature skin makeup showcasing a huge opportunity for brands to enter the category in 2023,” notes Spate.

Consumers are also showing a growing interest in skincare products that are safe for their bodies and the environment with searches for “safe” and “reef safe.” Brands should consider ways to adapt to this trend with scientifically backed claims and without fear-mongering.

Finally, the rise of water-based searches indicates that consumers now understand not only skincare ingredients and formats but formula nuance. “Consider where and how they might like to see water-based products in their routines,” note the report authors.

Meanwhile, the skin barrier trend has been “on fire,” and this positioning is poised for continued growth. “With only 3,500 average monthly branded searches, there’s room for more players in the space,” state the authors.

Searches for product formats like cream, oil and serums showcase opportunities for brands. Consumers also seek out different concerns alongside skin barrier protection, like acne and dermatitis.

“Brands can use this data to understand the specific concerns that are driving interest in skin barrier products and develop strategies to address multiple concerns at once,” the authors state. “How about an acne-fighting, barrier-restoring spray or a barrier-healing, dermatitis-preventing serum?”

Scalp care in the spotlight
The skinification of the hair category continues. While it is widely known that scalp care directly contributes to hair health, brands can play into this by emphasizing ingredients that have dual hair and scalp benefits.

While it is widely known that scalp care directly contributes to hair health, brands can play into this by emphasizing ingredients that have dual hair and scalp benefits.Consumers increasingly search for claims like exfoliating properties and SPF, showing how they’re bringing skincare methodologies into their hair care routines.

Searches for biotin, hemp, apple cider vinegar, salicylic acid and vitamin C alongside scalp serum show the ingredients top of mind for consumers.

“Top concerns searched alongside scalp serum, such as hair loss, aging and dandruff, show consumers want to treat various issues with this product. Brands in the hair space can use this data to show how their products – whether scalp serums or something else – have everything consumers need,” highlights the Spate report.

With the dominance of low maintenance in trending hair claims – particularly low maintenance cuts and styles – consumers show a preference for passive beauty trends. Passive trends require initial setup but little care throughout the day. 

Clarifying is another steadily rising claim that has captured consumers’ attention. Brands with shampoos should emphasize how they can remove buildup, while those with styling products can show that their lineup won’t leave anything behind but smooth tresses. 

Appreciating aging
The “anti-aging” claim has been abandoned by some brands in recent years in favor of age-positive phrases, like “well-aging.” The rise of gray blending and mature skin makeup is a reminder not to neglect older generations despite the proliferation of Gen Z influences in pop culture, Spate highlights.

Spate reports that consumers are looking for hair color techniques and makeup that “work with their aging features rather than against them.”

Spade highlights an opportunity to create skin-friendly embellishments, in line with consumer demand for play and expression. 

In their product development processes, brands should consider not only skin and hair type but also age as they complete testing and write package or marketing copy. 

In the name of fun
Spate notes that today’s beauty consumer wants their “serious” products – such as SPF tinted moisturizer and tubing mascara – as much as they want their eye-catching embellishments.

“Brands across the beauty category should consider ways to make complementary products like skin-supporting rhinestone glue and product formats that support consumers’ desires to get creative and play,” Spate highlights.

As beauty is merging with identity exploration and play, Isamaya Ffrench is one brand reframing makeup as an exploration of identity and alter egos. The artist’s inaugural drop, Industrial, espouses a “hardcore” aesthetic taking cues from “leather and latex, piercings and rubber, flesh, strength and self-possession.”

In other makeup trends, contouring has gone through a major glow-up in recent years. Once the makeup trend known to drastically sharpen features in a “full beat” routine, contouring today is more about subtle sculpting and lifting.

Liquid blush, contour palettes, cream contour and blush sticks emphasize a growing interest in complexion creativity, giving consumers the tools to create the angles they want.

Benjamin Ferrer