COP15: Promoting sustainable supply chains necessary for preserving biodiversity, say FEBEA and IKW

14 Dec 2022 --- In light of the ongoing UN Biodiversity Conference (COP15) happening in Montreal, Canada, the French Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA) and The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) are spotlighting the role of raw materials derived from nature for cosmetic product formulations and the need to counteract the loss of biodiversity through ethical procurement in a good practice guide.

“In order to preserve natural resources and their ecosystems and to limit their impact on nature, companies should avoid, among other things, extracting elements from an environment which is sensitive and with a fragile equilibrium, or to collect protected plants in their natural environment,” advises the guide’ titled Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry – Inspiring Examples from France and Germany.

“Cosmetics companies should also comply with the requirements from existing conventions and regulations, such as CITES lists, the Red List of threatened animal and plant species of IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) or similar lists at the national level.”

This is to ensure companies avoid overexploitation of natural resources, even non-protected ones.

The guide recommends ensuring the sustainability of supply chains to efficiently trace sourcing of raw materials.As a case in point, the guide illustrates the works by the Action for Sustainable Derivatives coalition, which includes Beiersdorf, Chanel, Clarins, Evonik Industries, Henkel, Johnson & Johnson, L’Occitane, L’Oréal and LVMH among its members.

Ethical sourcing
The guide outlines the manufacturing chain comprises various ingredients often sourced from multiple parties and ensuring the sustainability of supply chains requires efficient traceability.

The beauty care department of IKW launched a partnership with the Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT) to support its members in their efforts to embed biodiversity within its companies.

With its partnership, IKW supports UEBT’s goals of preserving and protecting biological diversity when sourcing and using raw materials. It also provides information on biodiversity and ethical sourcing to the member companies to provide them the opportunity to intensify sustainable use.

Value chain
Working with suppliers to help structure and secure raw material supply chains is recommended to ensure the sustainable use of resources.

“Companies build partnerships with suppliers, working with them and training them, thus sharing [its] own experience externally,” the guide elaborates.

“For instance, providing technical support to pickers, farmers and producers by setting up management plans and good harvesting practices (quotas, rotations, methods, tools and training). Harvesting charters can, among other provisions, ensure the sustainable use of wild resources.”

Developing short-sourcing channels also allows for reusing “waste” from other activities, as some cosmetics companies do when they reuse by-products from the food industry.Per the EU deforestation deal, traders should be aware that use of palm oil, soy, beef, coffee, cocoa, timber and rubber from the EU market may be subject to new rules.

“In the short channel sourcing model, companies can get involved in different ways – from the commitment to a long-term relationship with a supplier to supporting the development of sustainable farming and harvesting methods aiming at protecting the biodiversity in a particular land.”

Focus on achieving zero deforestation
The federations are furthering the European Green Deal to tackle deforestation.

Recently, the European Council and Parliament struck a provisional deal that requires companies that market materials such as soy, beef, palm oil, wood, cocoa and coffee, must ensure that the products are not sourced from deforested lands or degrading forests.

“The cosmetics sector is aware of the issues related to using certain ingredients for their unique properties and numerous benefits. Many companies are committed, through action plans or internal charters, to ensuring the responsible sourcing of raw materials which may cause deforestation,” the federations report.

Edited by Radhika Sikaria