Cosmetic check: UK seeks industry expertise on nanomaterials and ingredient safety

16 Aug 2023 --- The UK Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS) has launched two “calls for data” on nanomaterials used in cosmetics and the safety of cosmetic chemicals. The office invites “interested parties, including academia and manufacturers of cosmetic products,” to share scientific information on safety assessments.

The OPSS seeks to ensure the safety of consumers who use cosmetics containing nanomaterials and evaluate the safety of certain chemicals in cosmetics suspected of endocrine disruptors.

Parties submitting the data need to include the findings from the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) Guidance on the Safety Assessment of Nanomaterials in Cosmetics, Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their safety evaluation.

Nanomaterials in question
Seven cosmetic nanomaterials are under scrutiny, including surface functionalized variants, alloys or other related variants, namely, platinum, copper, silver, colloidal silver, gold, colloidal gold, gold thioethylamino hyaluronic acid, lithium magnesium sodium silicate and hydroxyapatite (nano). The deadline for submission of these materials is December 22, 2023. 

Silica and its variants, such as hydrated silica, silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate are also included in the list. The deadline for submission for this group is June 27, 2025.The OPSS seeks to ensure the safety of consumers who use cosmetics.

Opinions on nanomaterials
The latest EU Observatory for Nanomaterials report predicted that the combined personal care and medicine sectors will lead to a 20.3% “dominant segment” of the nanomaterial market by 2025. 

However, the promising prospect for nanocosmetics has heightened concerns over health issues due to toxicity risks for researchers, who reviewed over ten valuable nanoparticles and nanoliposomes.

Furthermore, in June, the SCCS published major revisions to the EU guidance on the safety assessment of nanomaterials in cosmetics to better align with scientific advancements. 

The committee also published a preliminary opinion on methylparaben after considering the concerns related to the potential endocrine activity of the antifungal agent. In March, the SCCS released its final opinion on using hydroxyapatite (nano) in oral cosmetic products.

In addition, the European Commission notified the WTO in May about a draft amendment for the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on the uses of nanocosmetics. Last year, a similar draft prohibiting nanomaterials was notified; however, it was amended to include colloidal silver (nano) and the restriction of hydroxyapatite (nano).

Chemicals in the red list
The OPSS lists six chemicals suspected to impact the endocrine system that controls hormones.

These include triclosan, triclocarban, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), salicylic acid, butylparaben and methylparaben. The deadline for submission for these chemicals is December 15 this year.

Last year, the SCCS presented its final opinion on safely using triclocarban and triclosan as cosmetic substances with potential endocrine-disrupting properties.

In related news, the Netherlands Food and Consumer Product Safety Authority identified toothpaste as the largest source of exposure to methylparaben for children.Seven cosmetic nanomaterials are under scrutiny.

Furthermore, the SCCS did not conclude the safety of 4-MBC. “There is sufficient evidence that 4-MBC may act as an endocrine disruptor and has effects on both the thyroid and estrogen systems,” the committee states. 

“Even if the genotoxic potential was excluded, the current re-evaluation of 4-MBC established a higher exposure level than the previous opinion…The use of 4-MBC at the maximum concentration of 4% in cosmetic ingredients would not be safe.”

This June, the SCCS’ final opinion stated that salicylic acid is safe when used as a preservative at a concentration of 0.5 % in cosmetic products (not applicable to spray products). “Methylparaben is safe when used as a preservative in cosmetic products up to a maximum concentration of 0.4% (as acid) when used on its own and up to 0.8% (as acid) for mixtures of esters,” reads its preliminary opinion.

Additionally, “based on safety assessment considering all available data and the concerns related to endocrine activity, the SCCS is of the opinion that the use of butylparaben as a preservative in cosmetic products at concentrations of up to 0.14% (expressed as acid) is safe.”

Earlier this month, the OPSS opened a safety consultation for modernizing UK product safety laws to “ensure they are fit for the digital age.” The government is “set to overhaul” the rules, including the Cosmetics Regulation, to regulate emerging technologies and new shopping habits.

By Venya Patel 

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