Diving into thermal waters’ rejuvenating properties in cosmetic formulations

16 Feb 2023 --- Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The health functionalities of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases enable formulators to use it as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

In a new study published in the MDPI journal, researchers set out to demonstrate this effect.

“A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases,” detail the researchers.

“Twelve thermal spring waters – Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy – were found to have potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies.”

Age-old natural skin therapy
Thermal spring waters are formed under specific geological conditions and characterized by “physic-chemical dynamism,” explain the researchers. They have three important properties, namely, “natural origin, bacterial purity and therapeutic potential.”

The therapeutic effects of thermal spring waters have been shown since ancient times.The therapeutic effects of thermal spring waters have been shown since ancient times. During the Roman empire, the use of these mineralized and frequently hot spring waters was spread throughout Europe, both for therapeutic and recreational use.

In the new study, natural thermal water, as well as water incorporated in cosmetic formulations, were evaluated. 

According to some vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, regulation of processes involved in aging and moisturizing properties. 

In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. 

Avène thermal water targets acne and irritation
Avène is a popular brand of dermocosmetics sold in many countries worldwide, including Japan. Two clinical trials featured in the MDPI research paper evaluated the use of Avène thermal spring water as a post-procedure adjunctive care for patients with acne, photodamage or melasma.

The studies showed that Avène thermal spring water reduced skin irritation, pain and erythema, while also having smoothing and anti-irritant properties due to its involvement in reducing cell sensitivity and its anti-inflammatory effects.

There are also studies about the effectiveness of a cream containing an Aquaphilus dolomiae extract (a cyanobacteria found in the Avène aquifer). In open-label, real-world studies, this cream reduced pruritus and xerosis in a range of dermatologic and systemic diseases.

Similarly, a cream made of the same extract effectively reduced xerosis in cancer patients, regardless of the initial grade of xerosis and the anticancer treatment received.

Blue Lagoon water supercharged with minerals
The Blue Lagoon in Iceland is a geothermal lagoon containing a mixture of seawater and freshwater that formed when warm saline fluid was discharged onto a lava field after a geothermal power plant was built in the area in 1976. It is a highly mineralized water, with an extremely high concentration of silica. 

“In 1993, a laboratory was built, and the development of Blue Lagoon skincare started,” detail the researchers. “Later on, assembling a network of experts, the Blue Lagoon Research and Development Center was created near the Lagoon.”

Studies conducted since 1994 have focused on the therapeutic effect of siliceous water, which is found only in Iceland. A particular emphasis has been placed on its effect on psoriasis, which has shown significant improvement when patients undergo a thermal water bath combined with narrow-band ultraviolet B therapy (NB-UVB), rather than just undergoing NB-UVB alone. 

Vichy Volcanic Water (Image credit: Vichy).The water has also shown improvement in the quality of life of psoriasis patients, histological score improvement, longer remission time, and a lower NB-UVB dose than UVB therapy alone. 

Research has also been conducted on the biologically active material found in Blue Lagoon’s geothermal microalgae and silica mud, which shows potential for use in skin barrier improvement and protection against extrinsic skin aging.

Italian spring water keeps skin hydrated and supple
Comano thermal spring water, located in northern Italy, is an oligometalic rich in bicarbonate, calcium and magnesium ions.

This particular spring water is a popular ingredient used in various cosmetic formulations that focus on sensitive skin, dermatitis and psoriasis. The research paper highlights that clinical and in vitro studies support the claim that it has anti-inflammatory, soothing and alleviating properties that keep the skin hydrated, fresh and supple. 

Several studies show that Comano thermal spring water has beneficial therapeutic effects on patients with psoriasis, eczematous dermatitis and atopic dermatitis. In addition, it has been found to improve skin regeneration by increasing keratinocyte proliferation and migration, modulating regenerated collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis. 

The biological properties of Comano thermal spring water may be due to the presence of nonpathogenic bacteria and active metabolites produced by the spring water’s native microbiota. Studies have shown that preparations with the water type may have clinical efficacy in promoting both tissue regeneration and wound healing.

Thermal waters’ sustained role in cosmetics
The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry, conclude the researchers.

“However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety,” they concede.

With the rising popularity of special waters in skincare, the issue of exploitation and eco-protection comes into focus. Environmental factors, such as climate alteration, ongoing sinkholes and geochemistry variation, could lead to the scarcity of water resources.

By Benjamin Ferrer