Emergence of circadian skincare, psychodermatology and “resurrected” fragrances among future beauty trends

01 Feb 2023 --- A technological renaissance is unfolding across the beauty space that is bringing new dimensions to skin rituals. Adaptogenic mushroom-based skincare, “emotionally intelligent” formulas targeting the brain-skin axis and virtual perfumes debuting in the metaverse are some of the unique developments set to revolutionize the beauty sector in the coming years.

It is also forecasted that an increasing amount of ingredient formulations will be leveraging biotech – including lab-grown solutions – to improve the sustainability, functionality and production time of products.

These are among the key findings highlighted in advertising group Wunderman Thompson’s latest report, “The Future 100: 2023.”

Chronobiology of beauty
Beauty sleep is inspiring new formulations as brands embrace the skin’s natural circadian rhythm in their newest products. Among notable examples highlighted in the report is the Chronobiology Sleep Mask by science-based skincare label Noble Panacea, launched in February 2022.

Beauty sleep is inspiring new formulations as brands embrace the skin’s natural circadian rhythm in their newest products (Image credit: Noble Panacea).The mask “precisely delivers active ingredients into the skin in a pre-programmed sequence synchronized with the skin’s natural circadian rhythm,” the brand states.

Three stages of activation occur throughout its nighttime application. During the “Detox” stage, from 11 pm to 4 am, the sleep mask releases polyhydroxy acids and pre-, pro- and post-biotics. The mask then delivers retinol and peptides during the “Repair” stage. Finally, ceramides and hyaluronic acid are released during the “Nourish” stage, when skin is at its maximum absorption.

A serum by 4AM skincare and an oil by La Prairie also claim to maintain and work with the skin’s natural circadian rhythm in order to reduce typical signs of aging.

Meanwhile, Beauty brand Mutha coined the term Circadian Dermablend in reference to its luxurious Cream Extreme, designed to complement the body’s circadian rhythm each night. Launched in June 2021, its formulation of botanicals repairs and stimulates the skin as it heals from daily aggravators during the night, leaving it smooth and rejuvenated.

Psychodermatology targets brain-skin axis
A new class of skincare products classified as “psychodermatology” is designed to elevate mood and mindfulness. As Stephanie Lee, founder and CEO at Selfmade, puts it: “Psychodermatology is a discipline that explores the relationship between the brain and skin.”

Launched in 2020, Selfmade is branded as the “first emotionally intelligent personal care brand” with psychodermatology and emotional well-being as core pillars.

Japanese skincare brand Tatcha is also harnessing the skin-mind connection with psychodermatology, by promoting intentional ritualization and ingredients that benefit the psychosomatic network, such as sweet fennel to boost focus and hinoki oil for relaxation. 

“In a summer 2022 survey conducted by the Unilever-owned brand, 69% of respondents reported feeling burned out in the past 12 months and 70% noticed negative changes in their skin because of stress. This further supports the need for ingredients and rituals around promoting the health of the mind as well as the skin,” highlights the Wunderman Thompson report.

Seventy-four percent of people sense their mental state and their skin are connected, according to Tatcha’s survey. Beauty brands are offering products that actively help tackle stress, with psychodermatology rituals and functional ingredients to benefit the skin and soothe the mind.

Resurrected ingredients
Brands are resurrecting extinct flora for their latest scents, using ingredients as gateways to the past and preserving sensory experiences for future generations.

“Bringing back extinct ingredients is more than just an attention-grabbing narrative. Resurrected ingredients will simultaneously help preserve nature today while securing its history for future generations,” forecasts the Wunderman Thompson report.

A recent collaboration between Haeckels and Tetsuo Lin, an MA Material Futures graduate from London’s Central Saint Martins, is resurrecting scents for the beauty industry.

“The project aims to revive lost scents by engineering fragrances using small amounts of DNA from floral samples, marking a new milestone in Haeckels’ sustainability efforts. Lab-grown scents bypass the use of physical flora and essential oils, ultimately eliminating the intensive resource impacts of farmed ingredients,” the report highlights.

In Europe, research project Odeuropa is using artificial intelligence (AI) to recreate lost smells from the past.

Researchers are applying AI techniques to archived imagery and literature from the 16th to early 20th century, to identify “how ‘smell’ was expressed in different languages, with what places it was associated, what kinds of events and practices it characterized, and to what emotions it was linked,” according to Odeuropa. The project hopes to highlight Europe’s rich olfactory heritage.

Adaptogenic beauty
Skincare is increasingly becoming synonymous with health care – shifting skincare brands from the beauty category into the health and wellness sector, highlights the Wunderman Thompson report.

Herbar is a new adaptogenic beauty brand from Berlin that signals a shift of skincare brands transitioning into the health and wellness sector (Image credit: Herbar).Herbar, a new adaptogenic beauty brand, launched last August with the premise that “beauty can be healing.” Herbar defines adaptogens as “non-toxic, non-harmful, life-enhancing plants that are often used due to their abilities to help the body resist physical, biological or chemical stressors.”

The new line features ingredients derived from “fauna, flora and fungi only” – all of which have dual benefits for internal and external healing properties.

The brand’s inaugural Face Oil product features three key adaptogenic ingredients: tremella, which is known for detoxifying and hydrating properties; reishi, which is used to reduce skin inflammation, puffiness, signs of aging and free-radical damage; and da zao (or Chinese jujube date), which is rich in iron and vitamin C, and is proven to treat acne, blemishes and scars.

Meanwhile, Allies of Skin launched its Advanced Brightening Serum last year, which includes an adaptogenic complex with reishi and shiitake mushrooms to strengthen and hydrate the skin. And Hydrafacial x JLo Beauty launched a booster last October that features a fermented adaptogenic blend. 

Virtual perfumes
Wunderman Thompson states that early metaverse plays by fragrance players are demonstrating how the future of digital engagement is shaping up to be “truly immersive” – reimaging sensory experiences for virtual environments. 

Gucci launched its Gucci Flora virtual perfume on Roblox in August 2022. With no smell, the fragrance instead includes a range of experiences, including challenges, games and interactive learning experiences, as well as a digital backpack inspired by the perfume bottle that Roblox users can wear. 

Byredo and RTFKT took a different approach to their virtual fragrance. Announced in June 2022, Alphameta interprets scent as a wearable aura. Each of the 26 auras represents a different emotion, like “acuity” or “naivety.” Users are encouraged to alchemize their own personalized auras by combining multiple emotions. The scents are available as limited collectible “elements” for what RTFKT calls its “avatar ecosystem.”

Altra, a self-titled “profuture” perfumery, is also linking scent with emotion in virtual environments and launched its virtual scentscapes in February 2022. Altra cofounder Beckielou Brown describes the scent-scapes as “immersive digital scent moods offering a new way to imagine the experience of scent and evoke emotions for the viewer in an increasingly digital landscape.”

Lab-grown skincare
Beauty brands are embracing lab-grown ingredients to elevate product sustainability and precision.

Estée Lauder-backed English beauty brand Haeckels launched Haeckels 2.0 in September 2022. This range of laboratory-grown skincare products is made with fully sustainable, compostable packaging and lowered carbon emissions, which cuts previous production times by half. The launch is the latest in the brand’s revolutionary sustainable beauty formulations.

Unilever pledged to invest US$120 million in plant-based alternatives for its home care, beauty and personal care products in partnership with the San Diego-based biotechnology group Geno. 

Beauty is merging with identity exploration and play, elevating makeup into an act of self-affirmation (Image credit: Isamaya).Unilever chief research and development officer Richard Slater says that by creating an alternative option to palm oil or fossil fuel for its products, the investment “will sit right at the intersection of science and sustainability,” and will position the brand as a “future-fit business.”

Lab-grown formulations are improving product functionality as well. UK-based skincare brand Cellular Goods launched lab-made cannabinoid skincare in February 2022. Ourself, a biotech beauty brand that launched the same year, aims to mimic in-office procedures with a line of biotechnologically created beauty ingredients.

Affirmational beauty
Beauty is merging with identity exploration and play, elevating makeup into an act of self-affirmation.

Isamaya Ffrench is reframing makeup as an exploration of identity and alter egos. “The artist’s eponymous makeup line, Isamaya, launched in June 2022 and has served as a master class in character building. Each of her two drops to date has channeled a distinct identity. The inaugural drop, Industrial, espoused a ‘hardcore’ aesthetic taking cues from ‘leather and latex, piercings and rubber, flesh, strength and self-possession’,” details Wunderman Thompson.

The latest collection, Wild Star, “pays homage to our inner cowgirl,” and personifies someone who “is tenacious, feisty, and holds her own,” Ffrench says. “She knows who she is and she never compromises. She’s completely in tune with her desire to feel glamorous yet powerful. She’s wild at heart.” 

Donni Davy, the makeup artist behind the television show Euphoria’s iconic looks, launched her own line in May 2022 inspired by the bright electric makeup colors that the show spawned. The Half Magic range is backed by an entertainment company, further enmeshing beauty and dramatis personae. 

The Fabricant is also playing in the virtual realm. The digital-only fashion house launched Xxories, a line of virtual facial accessories, in October 2022. “Digital beauty has the potential to let us extend our identity into places we haven’t seen before,” remarks The Fabricant creative director Amber Slooten.

“It lets beauty enthusiasts explore identities beyond this realm and discover new sides of ourselves.”

By Benjamin Ferrer