In-cosmetics Global 2026 live: dsm-firmenich enters exosome beauty with plant-derived longevity ingredient

dsm-firmenich has launched its plant-derived exosome ingredient, Exovive Lift, at this week’s ongoing In-cosmetics Global 2026 trade show (April 14–16). The ingredient marks the company’s debut into the growing exosome skin care space, and is positioned as a next-generation solution for skin regeneration. 

Developed as an “extracellular synergy system,” the ingredient combines exosomes derived from Alpine apple, Mediterranean tangerine, and Sicilian papaya.

According to dsm-firmenich, Google searches for “exosome” have surged 206% globally in the past year, and early adopter markets such as South Korea and North America are seeing an increase in skin care launches making exosome claims.

Exovive Lift contains botanical vesicles, which act as microscopic delivery systems that support intercellular communication and skin repair. In clinical trials, using the ingredient for two months showed a 30% improvement in skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction equivalent to eight years of aging.

Personal Care Insights speaks with Francois Paul, global senior marketing manager at dsm-firmenich, on the showfloor in Paris, France. He tells us that the ingredient’s scientifically validated benefits are largely attributable to its effective delivery system.

“Even large derivatives are able to penetrate the skin and enter the skin cells, and we have evidence: our microscope can show that the plant-based vesicles enter the fibroblast. This vesicle contains a cargo of nutrients — not only peptides and lipids, but also the secondary metabolites, or the active parts, that come from the plants,” says Paul. 

Exovive Lift is supplied as a water-soluble powder containing approximately four trillion vesicles per gram. According to the company, it can be formulated across a broad pH range and used at low concentrations.

dsm-firmenich’s Exovive Lift supports intercellular communication and skin repair.dsm-firmenich highlights additional performance data, indicating the ingredient helped increase collagen production in vitro and helped modulate proteins linked to skin regeneration. The data support claims around improved skin density, elasticity, and overall appearance.

Medically-inspired skin care

The ingredient aligns with the current shift toward cosmetic formulations that are medically-inspired, and bridge scientifically validated efficacy and daily skin care routines. However, as exosome claims gain popularity, public scrutiny has increased on the source of the human-derived compounds and whether their use is ethical and safe.

“Exosomes are coming from the medical field. Now it’s coming to cosmetics, but we know that there are some restrictions, regulations, and also safety considerations, so human-derived exosomes could be an issue,” Paul tells us.

While multiple different ways have emerged to source exosomes, such as from stem cells and cell culture, dsm-firmenich opted for those from plants due to their multiple advantages. Paul explains that selecting the plants from which the vesicles are taken is crucial, as different plants have specific secondary metabolites or active compounds that offer different benefits. 

“We decided to blend three different fruits in order to combine the benefits of their microRNAs. We have evidence that these microRNAs are able to modulate the expression of the mRNA, meaning the expression of the proteins.”

dsm-firmenich states that its proprietary extraction process preserves the integrity of the plant-derived exosomes without the use of solvents and uses low-energy physical methods.

The ingredient is also fully biodegradable and preservative-free. It further reports having a low carbon footprint as it repurposes biowaste streams and by-products.

With live reporting by Sabine Waldeck at In-cosmetics Global 2026 in Paris, France.