Exploring velvet bean plant extract’s anti-aging potential in nanoemulsion cosmetics

28 Mar 2024 --- Research from Thailand explores the potential of Mucuna pruriens (M. pruriens) seed extract in nanoemulsion cosmetics. According to the study in Cosmetics, MDPI, the seeds’ extracts can be used to create nanoemulsions that show promise for the creation of new cosmeceutical products. 

M. pruriens is also known as the velvet bean plant and is revered for its rich phytochemical profile and historical medical applications. The study emphasizes how M. pruriens seeds, especially M. pruriens var. utilis, can be used in cosmetic formulations with anti-aging qualities. 

Seed variations
The authors say traditional medicine has recognized M. pruriens seeds for their range of pharmacological qualities. The evaluation of M. pruriens seed extracts’ anti-aging, antioxidant and moisturizing properties has also been the focus of recent research, notes the study. 

To determine which variety is the most promising for use in cosmetic applications, researchers chose to compare two varieties — M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis.

M. pruriens var. utilis was found to exhibit increased levels of phenolic and flavonoid compounds, which are important for their antioxidant properties. Superior anti-aging effects were seen by its inhibition of key enzymes that maintain skin hydration and elasticity, such as hyaluronidase, collagenase and elastase.

“Soxhlet extraction is a suitable method for extracting M. pruriens seeds because the active ingredients in them (gallic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, luteolin, epicatechin and kaempferol) are heat resistant,” suggest the scientists.

Nanoemulsions and cosmeceuticals
(Image credits: Chiang Mai University, Mae Fah Luang University).Researchers used lipid-based nanocarriers called nanoemulsions to encapsulate the chosen M. pruriens var. utilis extract. Nanoemulsions have several benefits, such as stability, small droplet size and effective delivery of active ingredients into the skin’s deeper layers.

“Lipid-based nanocarriers are a delivery system that is widely used in the cosmetic and cosmeceutical industries. They can protect an active ingredient from the environment. Nanoemulsions are lipid-based nanocarriers consisting of oil, water, and a surfactant. The water and oil are mixed with an appropriate surfactant,” detail the authors.

“The droplet size of nanoemulsions is 20 – 500 nm. As a result, they can penetrate through rough skin and are stable with respect to precipitation, inherent creaming, flocculation, coalescence, and sedimentation due to their small size. They can incorporate both hydrophilic and hydrophobic compounds. They are non-toxic, non-irritating and small.”

Understanding aging
According to the study, skin aging is complex and influenced by a number of variables, such as genetic predispositions and environmental stressors. Researchers are focusing on botanical extracts in response to the growing need for safe, natural skin care products.

The study highlights how aging involves extrinsic and intrinsic factors. 

Intrinsic aging is influenced by genetics, whereas extrinsic aging is caused by environmental factors like pollution and UV radiation. These processes cause structural alterations in the skin, such as a decrease in the production of collagen and elastin, a slowdown in cell turnover and an increase in trans-epidermal water loss.

By Venya Patel