Fermented sake yeast byproduct shows “anti-inflammaging” benefits in skin cells
01 Nov 2022 --- Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) is a functional ingredient that has been found to prevent dry skin and can improve the efficacy of skincare products in a Japanese study. Based on a review of advances in skin biology, the researchers suggest that GFF contains potent barrier-protecting, anti-inflammaging, antioxidative and anti-senescence properties.
Therefore, GFFs can be considered a powerful cosmetic agent for preventing and repairing skin damage caused by external and internal influences and for maintaining healthy, youthful-appearing skin by combating skin aging, suggest the researchers.
They flag that low-grade chronic inflammation is a significant risk factor that can accelerate aging, known as inflammaging.
The use of GFF originates from the empirical observation of elderly sake brewers, who dealt with yeast fermentation and retained a “beautiful and youthful appearance” of their hands. In contrast, their faces remained wrinkled. The ingredient is a by-product of fermented sake and is a nutrient-dense yeast.
Moisturizing benefits
New studies have found that GFF works by activating an aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) and upregulates the expression of filaggrin – a key source of natural moisturizing factors in epidermal keratinocytes (skin cells).
“The human epidermis comprises multiple layers of keratinocytes, including basal, spinous, granular and cornified layers. Keratinocytes proliferate in the basal layer, move up through the spinous and granular layers, and die, but remain functional as corneocytes in the cornified layer, before finally detaching from the skin,” elaborate the authors.
Similar AHR-mediated action has been confirmed in phytochemicals, such as extracts of Houttuynia cordata, Opuntia ficus-indica and Artemisia princeps, which are used as folk medicines or as cosmetic ingredients.
Anti-inflammaging properties
GFF also activates nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (NRF2) – which exhibits potent antioxidative activity against UV irradiation and cytokines, accelerating inflammaging.
The GFF-mediated NRF2 also downregulates CDKN2A expression, which is overexpressed senescent keratinocytes – a process of aging cells that permanently stop dividing.
“Moreover, GFF enhances epidermal terminal differentiation by upregulating the expression of caspase-14, claudin-1, and claudin-4 [enxyme and proteins],” state the researchers. “This might contribute to the moisturizing effects of GFF-containing skin formulae.”
GFF also down-regulates the allergenic cytokine IL-33 in keratinocytes and promotes the synthesis of the anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-37.
Additionally, GFF is anti-inflammaging as it downregulates the expression of CXCL14 and IL6R genes that cause inflammation and aging.
Cream and masks
The authors note that GFF-containing moisturizers increase skin hydration and reduce transepidermal water loss.
“Clinical trials have also shown that the topical application of GFF Pitera improves intraday fluctuations in facial redness, skin roughness, and hair pore size,” they continue.
Additionally, using a face mask (against viral infections) can cause skin redness and changes to pore size. However, topical treatment with GFF has been found to improve facial skin conditions.
Edited by Venya Patel
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