Gattefossé and Ambiotis link lipid disruption to skin aging in joint research

Gattefossé and Ambiotis have found that when pro-resolving lipid mediators become unbalanced they contribute to skin aging. The French companies’ joint research unveiled that these lipids become unbalanced in aged skin, disrupting cell communication and contributing to inflammation and tissue breakdown.

The research has increased the scientific understanding of skin aging, supporting Gattefossé in developing future cosmetics ingredients. 

As skin ages, its ability to maintain balance and recover from stressors declines. The partnership found that certain lipid molecules, known to help resolve inflammation and restore tissue homeostasis, also play a role in this process.

Nicolas Bechetoille, head of Skin Biology Research at Gattefossé, says: “It is becoming essential to rethink cosmetic intervention through the lens of a more integrative anti-aging approach. The tissue integrity of the skin can no longer be viewed solely in terms of the balance between synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix components.”

“Targeting pro-resolving bioactive lipids is now a key strategy to preserve skin health and effectively combat aging within a holistic, healthy aging framework.”

Research focus

Gattefossé and Ambiotis have been studying how specific lipids, specifically pro-resolving lipids, affect skin aging. These molecules are part of the skin’s secretome, a mix of signaling molecules released by cells that help them communicate.

Imbalanced lipid mediators contribute to thinning skin, reduced elasticity, and wrinkles.The researchers focused on how these lipids interact with two cell types: macrophages, part of the immune system, and fibroblasts, which help maintain the structure and firmness of the skin.

The studies found that in mature skin, the balance of these lipids changes, disrupting normal communication between macrophages and fibroblasts, which can cause fibroblasts to behave abnormally.

Instead of helping to keep the skin stable and healthy, these fibroblasts become overactive and start producing more enzymes that break down the skin’s structure. They also promote inflammation.

This shift contributes to signs of aging, such as thinning skin, reduced elasticity, and wrinkles.

“Maintaining homeostasis is a fundamental element of human physiology. Fortunately, our bodies, tissues, and skin are well equipped to do it, thanks in particular to the so-called specialized pro-resolving mediators. These lipids play a key role in enabling the body to move from a state of imbalance to a restored state of equilibrium,” says Marc Dubourdeau, CEO of Ambiotics.

“Encouraging the increased synthesis of these lipids is tantamount to reinforcing the skin’s own beneficial mechanisms, helping to prevent aging and preserve the skin’s vitality.”