Global hand and nail care trends: Spotlight on glycerin, dexpanthenol, vitamins and upcycled shells

24 Jul 2023 --- “Hand and nail care” innovation in personal care has increased with a compound annual growth of 25% when comparing 2018 and 2022 launches, according to Innova Market Insights. In this Special Report, Personal Care Insights delves into research within the niche while revealing market trends.

The top three subcategories for “hand and nail care” are Hand Soap & Sanitizers 54%, Hand & Nail Care 39% and Hand & Foot Care 7%, shares the market researcher. Additionally, the top company was Bath and Body Works, which sells hand soaps, creams and sanitizers, among other fragrance-based personal care products.

Innova Market Insights also reveals Glycerol as the leading ingredient for “hand and nail care” NPD at 58%. This is followed by Other Oils 37%, Citric Acid 35%, D-Allo-Ocimenol 30% and Limonene 28%. 

The top positioning of “hand and nail care” launches were Moisturizing & Hydrating 57%, followed by Ethical Packaging 44%, Ethical Animal/Fish & Bird 31%, Antibacterial 30% and No Animal Ingredients 23%.

Unhealthy nail polish and removal cycle
A Japan-based study found that frequent use of nail polish aggravates the condition of the fingernail as acetone nail polish remover decreases its ceramide content. Researchers examined the fingernails of three Japanese women in their twenties by high-performance liquid chromatography and antibody staining. 

“The acetone-treated fingernails had a lower water content and higher water evaporation than the inner forearm skin and healthy fingernails, suggesting that they had compromised moisturizing and barrier functions and were more susceptible to roughness and damage,” flag the authors. (Image Credit: Japan-based study).

In addition, ceramide levels changed with the fingernails that were immersed in nail polish remover solution. 

“The distribution showed ceramide to be present in the ventral and dorsal regions of the free edge of the fingernail plate. After immersion in nail polish remover, the three-layered structure of the free edge of the plate was intact, but the dorsal distal edge of the plate peeled off,” they continue. 

Function and health of nails
Nails protect the tips of fingers and toes while helping to exert force when performing tasks. Research has found that the nail matrix, constantly being replaced, produces a nail plate consisting of around 196 tight cell layers made of stratified squamous epithelial cells.

“The division of nail matrix cells is continuous so that, unlike hair, which forms in cycles, nails form continuously. On the dorsal surface of the nail matrix, cells overlap to form a smooth surface, while on the ventral surface, they are irregular and can interconnect with the nail bed,” detail the authors. 

Cholesterol is the major component in the nail matrix, and fingernails have a lower water content and higher water evaporation than other skin parts. This is because there are fewer lipids on the fingernail plate. Its elasticity and flexibility are impacted by water content. “It has been reported that fingernails are less likely to break or split into two when the water content in the fingernail plate is 13% to 17%.”

Hand hydration and barrier protection
In a separate study by Bayer and proDERM, researchers tested the performance and acceptability of a dexpanthenol-containing hand cream (ND-HC), Bepanthen Derma Repairing Hand Cream, developed for people with dry, sensitive and environmentally stressed hands.

“ND-HC contains a humectant (glycerin), a physiological lipid (isopropyl isostearate), non-physiological lipids (shea butter, squalane, argan oil), an antipruritic/soothing agent (niacinamide) and a multifunctional ingredient (dexpanthenol),” detail the authors.

The cream was tested on 40 healthy adult subjects with sensitive and very dry skin on their hands. “Single and continued at least four times daily applications of ND-HC to very dry skin of the hand for four weeks triggered significant increases in stratum corneum hydration,” they share.

“On day 29, the mean change in skin capacitance from baseline was significantly greater when ND-HC was applied to the test area compared with the untreated area on the contralateral hand.”

Moreover, after four weeks of applying the cream, transepidermal water loss “decreased significantly,” indicating an improvement in the stratum corneum barrier.

More than alleviating dryness
Researchers of ND-HC note dry skin impacts hands and is often triggered by environmental factors, such as frequent washing, cold weather or exposure to chemicals or detergents.(Image Credit: Bepanthen Derma Repairing Hand Cream study).

“The hands feel dry and rough; they are tense, reddened, and painful cracks appear. People with dry hands have an increased risk of eczema formation,” write the authors. 

They suggest moisturizing hands regularly to restore hydration and barrier function. However, the researchers underscore that a hand cream must have more benefits than just moisturizing, such as quick absorption, non-greasy and non-sticky and instantly relieving tightness and roughness.

Multifunctional hydration
In a multifunctional product innovation, Univar Solutions’ Vitaplex 2-in-1 hand and hair conditioner is said to condition “in a flash.” 

The leave-in product soothes the skin with an “intense” texture and anti-inflammatory vitamins with a matcha fragrance. It contains vitamins B3, B5, B6, C and E.

Other star ingredients include humectant glycerin, anti-aging lactic acid, conditioning agent cannabisamidopropyl dimethylamine and emollient refined shea butter.

Users can apply Vitaplex on their hands for moisturization while running it through the hair as a leave-in conditioner.Chitin can be sourced from discarded comb-pen shells.

Upcycled shells for body hand cream
Other researchers in Indonesia presented a hand and body cream containing chitin sourced from comb-pen (Atrina pectinata) shell waste.

The comb-pen shell is a natural chitosan source, derived from chitin in Indonesia. They suggest that chitosan can be used as an antibacterial, antioxidant and thickening agent in hand body cream ingredients in the non-food sector.

The characteristics of hand body cream had a good result on every parameter test that fulfilled the standard of Indonesia Nasional Standards, highlight the authors.

The hand body cream was made starting with a water phase consisting of 2.5 g propylene glycol, 2 g triethanolamine, 3.5 g glycerin, 4 g butylated hydroxytoluene, 0.2 mL disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 2 g cetyl alcohol, 1 mL chitosan solution and 25 mL water. 

The oil phase consisted of 1.5 g of lanolin, 8 g olive oil, and 3 g of stearic acid, homogenized until evenly distributed and stopped at 35°C.

By Venya Patel