In-cosmetics 2022: Experts unveil clean, microbiome-boosting and plant-based beauty innovations

05 Apr 2022 --- The international cosmetics trade show in-cosmetics 2022, currently held in Paris, France, shines a light on natural beauty formulations, upcycled moisturizing tech, microbiome advances for skin health and new skincare prototypes.

Reporting from the show floor, PersonalCareInsights speaks with representatives from Givaudan, Jungbunzlauer, Mibelle Biochemistry, Symrise, CP Kelco and Roquette Beauté, who are at the event unveiling their latest research and NPD.

The event is hosted in person from April 5 to 7 while also taking place virtually from April 11 to 22.

Natural ingredients highlighted
Jungbunzlauer is a global manufacturer of biodegradable natural ingredients, expressing an ambition to create safer and more environmentally friendly products.

At in-cosmetics 2022, the supplier is exhibiting new formulations, such as a sunscreen (SPF 30) with inorganic UV filters formulated with Citrofol AI Extra, hand disinfection gel formulated with lactic acid, and skin cream containing zinc lactate.

Marketed as “fully natural,” the lactic acid hand sanitizer helps promote the growth of good bacteria on the skin, highlights Ferid Haji, product group manager, Lactics, Jungbunzlauer.

“Also, it is effective on very low usage and our body knows lactic acid because it goes up and down constantly. Therefore, even if it was always on the skin, there’s not much difficulty for the body.”

“There are bacteria that produce lactic acid, and we have a lot of them even in our human body and our digestive tract,” he adds. “But when we use it in a formula like this, the main purpose is to kill the bacteria we don’t want.”

Cleansing, skincare and sun care prototypes
Nature-based ingredient solutions provider CP Kelco is at the show featuring a comprehensive range of offerings to help companies develop new products in the fast-growing personal care sector. The company is demonstrating its “nature-powered” ingredients in a range of cleansing, skincare and sun care prototypes.

The prototypes that are being featured by CP Kelco include an emulsifier-free, cold-processed mineral sunscreen, shampoo and a honey-thick, sulfate-free body wash.

“Consumers want personal care products that are good for them and the environment, with no compromises on luxurious texture and overall sensory appeal,” says Sandra Catarino, director of strategic segment marketing, CP Kelco.

Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients showcased its sun protection and hair care range at in-cosmetics 2022.“The challenge for formulators is delivering the functionality and texture that consumers expect in more sustainable formats, that use less water and do not contain sulfates, silicone and parabens.”

Meanwhile, Givaudan Active Beauty is featuring its extensive portfolio of active cosmetic ingredients that tap into anti-aging, self-tanning, soothing, hydrating and cooling. The company highlights its Sensityl solution – a patent-pending active cosmetic ingredient originating from microalgae that protect the skin from bacteria.

“Biotech can link to the beauty world when it comes to naturality. We only use natural materials and bacteria to keep something completely natural, meaning some added effects and added value to the product,” says Mathias Fleury, head, actives category, Givaudan.

Upcycled ingredients for skin moisturization
At the Paris event, Mibelle Biochemistry unveiled its two skin moisturizers – SLVR’Coffee and NovoRetin.

Contributing to the circular economy, SLVR’Coffee is based on upcycled coffee silverskin to moisturize and comfort dry skin. The coffee silverskin is the innermost layer of the coffee cherry surrounding the coffee beans.

 The potency of the SLVR’Coffee ingredient is derived from recovered valuable molecules from the upcycled beans.

Meanwhile, NovoRetin is presented as a plant-based, stable and safe alternative to retinol. It is based on mastic, an aromatic resin from the bark of a tree that grows only on the Greek island of Chios.

NovoRetin can increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, leading to retinol-like effects without applying retinoids topically on the skin. 

Clean beauty remains “on trend” and microbiome moves
At In-Cosmetics 2022, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients is showcasing its new product launches and Clear Beauty concept.

Sun protection, hair care, a sustainable moisturizing ingredient and a bio-based multifunctional material are among the featured products.

The company’s botanicals range is enriched with a vegan collection of plant milk.

At the show, in-depth talks by Symrise experts are explaining the company’s processes of natural sourcing and renewable ingredients, followed by a microbiome-friendly R&D sun care tour.

Skin microbiome ingredients
Meanwhile, Beauté by Roquette DE 006 is a new ingredient being introduced by Roquette Beauté at the tradeshow.

Beauté by Roquette DE 006 addresses the increased need of customers for natural-based and effective soothing skin and scalp components that protect the diversity of their skin microbiome.

The skin microbiota is the largest and most diversified, with an average surface area of 2m². Maintaining its balance is essential for protecting our skin barrier and avoiding difficulties such as inflammation, dehydration and sensitive skin.

Consumers have been more aware in recent years that skin disorders might be linked to an imbalanced microbiome, resulting in an increase in demand for effective plant-based skin care products that are also microbiome-friendly.

By Nicole Kerr, with live reporting from Venya Patel from in-cosmetics 2022, Paris.

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