Lignin and bio-based sunscreens popular with consumers despite low SPF concerns in plant-based NPD, study finds

07 Sep 2021 --- Consumers who are more familiar with environmental issues have a positive attitude toward bio-based ingredients and are more likely to be interested in lignin-based sunscreen products.

This is according to a new study published in the journal Cosmetics, part of the bio4care project at InnoRenew Centre of Excellence. It found that consumers are welcoming toward a natural, healthy and environmentally friendly sunscreen alternative but are concerned about the lower SPF in the plant-based sunscreen.

However, as organic is perceived as “luxurious,” the participants are concerned about its price, and some are apprehensive about its pigmentation.

Highly functional plant-based biopolymer
The study investigated the knowledge and attitudes of 230 consumers toward lignin-based sunscreen.

Lignin is a multifunctional and widely available biopolymer that can replace several ingredients, but its dark color and low sun protection limit its perceived usefulness.

Participants were asked about their sunscreen habits, their familiarity with the environmental and health impacts of skincare, their perceptions of bio-based ingredients in general, as well as their skincare product purchasing decisions.

In addition to a positive attitude toward the environment and bio-based ingredients in general, sufficient information about the product is associated with a greater intention to buy it, so efforts should be made to educate the public about lignin and its production.

Notably, more than 85 percent of the survey participants consider bio-based safe, derived from plants, of lower toxicity, organic, environmentally friendly, high quality and effective.The study looked at consumer reasons for buying sunscreen and how it relates to their environmental and health concerns.

Adequate protection demands
A lignin-based sunscreen at this stage is unlikely to take on the role of primary sunscreen on warm and sunny days.

A sunscreen based on lignin cannot achieve a high enough SPF to offer adequate protection from UV rays on its own.

For this reason, it is more realistic to create an all-in-one product that provides some coverage and protection from oxidative and sun damage, the researchers found.

“I have used less and less sunscreen in recent years, as I believe that modern nanoparticle creams harm our skin more than sun radiation. With a product like this (lignin-based sunscreen), I might change my habits,” says a study participant.

“I would buy a product if it would protect me from UV rays,” notes another study participant. “However, the low SPF would be a reason not to buy it. I am prone to sunburns, so my skin requires higher SPF. Succeeding in improving SPF would make me more interested in the product.”

As consumers expect environmental sustainability and traceability, green beauty is becoming increasingly popular in the personal care industry.

The daily consumption of synthetic sunscreens is harmful to the environment and consumers’ health, so greener alternatives need to be produced, the study supports.

Sunscreen use and SPF
To understand the needs and behaviors of potential users, the researchers asked consumers about their sunscreen habits and preferences.

One-third of participants reported avoiding certain ingredients in their skincare. The ingredients mentioned most frequently were parabens, parfums, aluminum and sodium laureth sulfate (SLS).

Less than 9 percent of the respondents reported never using sunscreen for their face or body.On its own, a lignin-based sunscreen cannot attain a high enough SPF to provide appropriate UV protection.

Participants reported using sunscreen most often at the beach and on warm sunny days. While 10 percent said they never or rarely use sunscreen at the beach, nearly 85 percent use it always or often.

Similarly, almost 60 percent wear sunscreen often or always on warm sunny days, but 21 percent rarely or never do. On the other hand, 70 percent never or rarely wear sunscreen on cloudy days.

When questioned about the type of SPF the consumers use, sunscreen with an SPF of 50 or higher for the face was preferred on warm and sunny days. 

While on cloudy days, most respondents did not use sunscreen, people chose an SPF of at least 15 for both their face and body in various circumstances.

In addition, a total of 13.9 percent of respondents reported having had an allergic or irritant reaction to a skincare product. 

Consumer perceptions of lignin
The researchers also investigated how familiar participants were with lignin and how they would perceive a lignin-based sunscreen.

Firstly, 39 percent of participants said they had never heard of lignin before the study, 26 percent said they had heard of it but did not know much about it, 26 percent were familiar with it, and 9 percent were not sure.

More than 80 percent of participants perceive lignin as being derived from plants, safe, renewable and natural origin. Approximately 60 percent of those questioned believe lignin is affordable and industrially available.

An open-ended question collected participants’ reasons for their decision to purchase a lignin-based sunscreen. Sustainability reasons were most frequently cited as a motive for buying a lignin-based sunscreen, with 107 responses affirming this.

Protecting the environment and substituting synthetic ingredients with bio-based and vegan alternatives were seen as significant benefits.

Innova Market Insights’ data echoes the rise of vegan claims in personal care products, which recorded a 52 percent average annual growth between 2016 to 2020.

Also, in the sunscreen space, Symrise’s Cosmetic Ingredients division recently invested in Kobo Products, a powder and dispersion company, to expand its sunscreen and color cosmetics area.

By Nicole Kerr