Lily of the valley fragrant ban looms over Great Britain amid reprotoxicity concerns

25 Oct 2022 --- The Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) is reminding the industry of the upcoming ban on cosmetics containing butylphenyl methylpropional (BMHCA). It means that products containing the ingredient must be taken off shelves by 15 December.

Additionally, the lily of the valley fragrant, also known as lilial, was banned from being placed on the Great Britain (GB) markets on 15 October.

Moreover, lilial has been banned in the EU since March 2022 due to the ingredient’s reprotoxic properties. 

Tracking the EU statusLilial has been banned in the EU since March 2022 due to the ingredient’s reprotoxic properties.
Netherlands-based cosmetic organization, NCV, explains that the Committee for Risk Assessment of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) concluded that lilial was reprotoxic in January 2019. 

Since the ECHA finding, lilial was classified as category 1b on August 11, 2020, via amendments in the EU Regulation classification, labeling and packaging. The changes have only been in effect since March this year. 

Reprotoxic substances are prohibited from cosmetics, unless a substance meets stringent safety requirements, continues NVC.

However, since lilial does not meet the requirements, there is no exemption for its use in the EU.

Lilial prohibition can be found in Annex II of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. On the other hand, lilial can be found in Annex III of the UK Cosmetics Regulation. 

Annex III of the UK Cosmetics Regulation also provides labeling requirements for BMHCA as a fragrance ingredient, depending on the product type (leave-on or rinse-off), reports CTPA.Products containtin lilial must be removed by December 15.

To beware of
In September, the ECHA proposed eight new entries for its Registry of Intentions with proposed carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic chemical classifications, which will undergo regulatory processes that could impact their use in cosmetic products. 

Of these, cyclamen aldehyde, bourgeonal and 4-tert-Butylbenzaldehyde are subject to regulation and provide scents comparable to lily of the valley. 

Additionally, the European Commission is restricting the use of Methyl Salicylate, an agent used for its fragrant, flavoring and soothing properties in cosmetics, due to its potential to cause irritations and acute toxicity. It will be in effect by the end of the year.

In further restrictions of fragrances, a new draft by the EC listed 56 ingredients to be added to the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, summing up more than 80 fragrances, individually required to be declared as allergens “if their concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.”

By Venya Patel

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