Nikko Chemicals launches skin barrier reinforcer by leveraging enzyme tech

02 Aug 2023 --- Nikko Chemicals has released Nikkol Lecinol MFL, which can reinforce the skin’s barrier function by encouraging ceramide production. 

The ingredient contains high levels of lysophosphatidic acid, a lysolecithin with an extensive range of efficacy on epidermal cells. 

It increases the skin’s barrier function by promoting keratinization on epidermal cells. This encourages the production of ceramide – a principal intercellular lipid constituent – and filaggrin – a skin cell strengthening protein – which are necessary for building natural moisturizing factors. 

Nikkol Lecinol MFL is also expected to be effective in protecting the skin against external stressors such as air pollutants. This multifunctional lysolecithin with skin barrier function reinforcement action is suited for emulsions, creams, beauty serums and other skin care products.

Whole-cell enzyme technology
The global market for hydrating skin care products has witnessed significant growth, with an average annual growth rate of 4% between 2018 and 2022, according to market researcher Innova Market Insights. This surge in demand can be attributed to consumers’ increasing focus on effective moisturization and hydration.

Nikko Chemicals creates a skin care ingredient that protects against air pollutants.Bioprocesses that utilize enzymes and other beneficial biological reactions allow this product to be manufactured under milder conditions, compared to chemical reactions. 

“We industrialized our whole-cell enzyme technology in which target enzymes are produced in high volumes extracellularly without performing recombination or any other genetic manipulations on specific bacterial strains,” says Nikko Chemicals. 

“In this whole-cell enzyme technology, the enzymes are not isolated and purified. Instead, the enzyme culture solution, or the solid component in said solution, is used as the biocatalyst in the enzymatic reaction. This improves the enzyme production process. Nikkol Lecinol MFL is a lysolecithin obtained by lecithin modification using whole-cell enzyme technology.”

Recent innovations
Scientists from the Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences & Health Technologies in Portugal and the University of Alcalá in Spain developed solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) based on stearic acid and glyceryl distearate.

Using stearic acid in SLN and NLC increases the flexibility of the lipid matrix and creates an opportunity to incorporate a higher quantity of actives. This inexpensive lipid could provide additional benefits, replenishing the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin barrier, and fatty acids to promote skin barrier preservation. 

Furthermore, the Estée Lauder Companies and several of its brands presented a range of novel preclinical and clinical findings at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology, held in Singapore.

In one study from skin care company La Mer, scientists evaluated a topical cream formulation containing algae Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and other ingredients on participants with various skin tones. The cream improved skin barrier recovery and resilience in the experiments, mitigated visible redness (erythema) and irritation and reduced signs of aged skin in US- and Asia-based populations.

Edited by Sabine Waldeck