Nivea-maker Beiersdorf unveils anti-aging ingredient to combat “sugar damage” and wrinkle formation

23 Apr 2024 --- Beiersdorf unveils Glycostop, an active ingredient it says will combat sugar-induced skin aging and wrinkle formation. Its new anti-aging product, Nivea Q10 Dual Action Serum, combines Glycostop and Q10 and will be available in stores this month.

After nearly ten years of research focusing on the skin’s glycation process, the manufacturing company says it developed a patented anti-aging active ingredient to protect the skin’s collagen from “sugar damage.”

Beiersdorf reports that scientific studies show that “excessive” sugar consumption is associated with various risk factors that contribute to the development of diseases such as obesity, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure and cardiovascular and autoimmune diseases. However, sugar’s impact on the skin is less known.

“Many substances intercept the sugar before it can react; they sacrifice themselves and become saccharified. This effect has to be avoided. Ultimately, there was a clear ‘winning ingredient’ called NAHP, which stands for N-Acetyl-L-hydroxyproline,” says Dr. Julia Weise, laboratory manager in the Biological Testing department at Beiersdorf. 

“NAHP prevents the glycation reaction from taking place in the first place and prevents the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) at a higher rate — by up to 68%. Sugar molecules are neutralized before they can bind to proteins and weaken collagen fibers. This is why we have given our active ingredient NAHP the second name, ‘Glycostop.’”

Combating wrinkles
Glycation is a naturally occurring and irreversible chemical reaction that occurs when sugar molecules bind to proteins or lipids, forming AGEs. The longer a protein lives in the skin, the more AGEs it can accumulate, which can lead to inflammation and free radicals. 

That means sugar weakens the skin’s collagen and elastin fibers, causing them to lose their elasticity and resilience. With UV radiation, this process contributes to the formation of wrinkles. The AGEs can also create a yellow color to the skin, as they are a yellow-brown color themselves.

Beiersdorf researched ingredients to relieve sugar’s effects on the skin.“We have done pioneering work in discovering the importance of Q10 in skin aging and finally making the skin’s own Q10 available as an active ingredient for the first time,“ explains Dr. Gitta Neufang, corporate SVP of R&D and head of over 1,000 Beiersdorf researchers worldwide.

“After launching the first Q10 skin care products on the mass market under the Nivea brand more than 25 years ago, we are now taking another decisive step in the anti-aging segment with our new anti-glycation ingredient.”

The company tested approximately 1,700 active ingredients in the development process before discovering Glycostop.

Sustainable anti-aging
Beiersdorf says Nivea Q10 Dual Action Serum fulfills “high sustainability standards.” It is free from silicones, mineral oils and non-biodegradable polymers. The cosmetic is in a glass pipette made from recycled glass, which is also recyclable.

“These are two highly potent ingredients that achieve a double effect: They prevent skin aging by effectively blocking the glycation of connective tissue proteins such as collagen and raising the Q10 content in the skin. [This way, the skin] can provide more energy and is better protected against free radicals. The new serum works from day one and is clinically proven to visibly reduce even the deepest wrinkles within two weeks,” concludes Weise. 

Robust quarterly earnings
Nivea and Eucerin were star performers for Beiersdorf, which recently reported strong first-quarter earnings. Organic sales jumped 7.3% year-over-year, helping the skin care giant report €2.6 billion (US$2.77 billion) in revenue. The Consumer Business segment, featuring brands like Nivea and Eucerin, saw double-digit growth, particularly in Europe and emerging markets. 

Beiersdorf is also confident about the rest of the year, with plans to launch new products, obtain contracts and report strong results in the third and fourth quarters.

By Sabine Waldeck