NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2025 live: Nouryon spotlights sustainable ingredients and AI tool

Nouryon will showcase a biodegradable non-quat hair conditioning agent, a bio-based aerosol propellant, and a new artificial intelligence (AI)-powered formulation platform at the upcoming New York Society of Cosmetics Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, held June 3-4 in the US.

The innovations — Armocare Aqua 12 surfactant, Demeon ReNu100 propellant, and the BeautyCreations AI tool — aim to address the personal care sector’s growing demands for sustainability, formulation efficiency, and high performance.

Personal Care Insights speaks to David Freidinger, vice president of Personal Care and Pharma at Nouryon, about how the ingredients compare to traditional alternatives and how the company positions itself at this year’s NYSCC trade show.

“Our overarching theme is to offer sustainable solutions in a holistic manner, recognizing that sustainability is no longer merely a label claim but an essential factor for companies striving to meet their goals and commitments efficiently,” Freidinger says.

Multi-functional ingredient

At the forefront of Nouryon’s NYSCC lineup is Armocare Aqua 12, a biodegradable hair conditioning agent without quaternary ammonium compounds (quats). The ingredient is positioned as a safer, more sustainable alternative for hair care formulators seeking high-performance results with lower environmental impact.

“Supplied as a 100% active flake with a low melting point, Armocare Aqua 12 surfactant offers a sustainable alternative to quats, with an improved environmental profile over market-leading conditioning agents,” Freidinger tells us.

“Suitable for both rinse-off and leave-in products, it can be used in shampoos to boost conditioning performance and in conditioners to deliver superior detangling, smoothness, and manageability properties to both wet and dry hair. It offers emulsifying properties, enabling it to function as the sole emulsifier in some conditioning formulations.”

It can be used at concentrations of up to 10% in solid formats, is gentle on the eyes and skin, and works well in sulfate-free systems. These have become popular due to consumer concerns over skin irritation and environmental impact.

Armocare Aqua 12 is a biodegradable, non-quat conditioning agent for hair care.According to in-house tests, the ingredient performed well regarding spreadability, application smoothness, ease of rinsing, wet combing, and dry feel for both damaged caucasian and curly (type 3) hair.

The company claims the ingredient is adaptable to various product formats, including more eco-conscious solid bars.

“The growing acceptance of natural hair styles is driving innovation in hair care products tailored for all hair types and textures. Armocare Aqua 12 surfactant is easy to use. Conditioners using the ingredient can be prepared in a one vessel mixing process or in a standard two vessel process, where the use of an acid to the water phase helps with the protonation of Armocare Aqua 12 surfactant,” Freidinger adds.

The ingredient is made from ISCC PLUS-certified renewable feedstocks and has a renewable carbon index of 0.92. It aligns with the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry, offering a solution that is both readily biodegradable and gentle to aquatic life. The surfactant is also GMO-free, broadening its appeal for clean label formulations.

Reducing carbon footprint

Demeon ReNu100, a dimethyl ether (DME)- based aerosol propellant made entirely from bio-based methanol, is also being introduced. The ingredient features a natural origin index of one, giving it a fully renewable profile under the mass balance approach for ingredient sourcing.

Freidinger tells us the ingredient was developed in response to consumer demand for premium, low-carbon personal care products.

“It offers the same performance as standard DME, with both having high solvency and being water miscible; however, bio-based Demeon ReNu100 provides a high-performing propellant that reduces the carbon footprint by up to 100% compared to standard DME,” he adds.

The ingredient can be used in various personal care applications, including hair spray, antiperspirant and deodorant sprays, dry shampoos, mousse, and shave foams.

“The benefits of using Demeon ReNu100 propellant in aerosol applications such as hairsprays and deodorants are that it has a high solvency power and therefore requires less ethanol use in the final formulation,” says Freidinger.

It has earned ISCC PLUS certification at Nouryon’s Rotterdam site in the Netherlands, which further supports its traceability and sustainability claims.

Performance-wise, it matches conventional DME regarding spray quality, droplet size, and fast-drying finish.Demeon ReNu100 offers a bio-based alternative to conventional aerosol propellants.

It features high solvency and remains virtually odorless and colorless. These attributes allow it to maintain formulation aesthetics while improving environmental profiles.

Demeon ReNu100 contains no animal-derived ingredients and is developed without animal testing. Its introduction supports the industry’s move toward vegan, cruelty-free, and clean beauty claims while also reducing the environmental impact of aerosol-based delivery systems.

AI-powered formulation search

BeautyCreations is a digital platform powered by AI designed to assist personal care formulators in quickly finding relevant ingredient solutions and ready-to-use formulations. The tool is built in collaboration with Albert Invent, a company specializing in AI for scientific development.

“The personal care industry is facing increasing consumer pressure for high-performing products that not only deliver very specific benefits, such as performance, sensory experience, or visual appeal, but also offer other attributes like sustainability. Formulators need quick access to our technical expertise, available 24/7, to help them efficiently innovate and meet these consumer demands,” Freidinger says.

The platform aims to accelerate the development process by helping formulators narrow down formulations based on specific requirements and needs.

“Using natural language, formulators can describe their formulation requirements and desired consumer product claims to the BeautyCreations tool, which is trained specifically for personal care formulation chemistry. The tool draws on Nouryon’s decades of historical data — including an extensive repository of starting point formulations for skin care, sun care, hair care, and hair styling formulations — and can easily request samples.”

According to Nouryon, the platform provides a more efficient and streamlined way to access formulation options, potentially reducing time-to-market. It also supports the exploration of ingredient synergies and offers guidance informed by the company’s past experience.

BeautyCreations is an AI-powered platform designed to support faster formulation.All formulations included in the platform are screened to avoid intellectual property conflicts and do not contain customer-proprietary information. Nouryon says the tool allows users to experiment and innovate confidently, even in time-constrained or resource-limited development settings.

New year, new NYSCC

Nouryon’s overarching theme at this year’s NYSCC is to offer holistic, sustainable solutions. It recognizes that sustainability is no longer a label claim but an essential factor for companies striving to meet their own and consumers’ goals.

In addition to the BeautyCreations tool, Freidinger tells us the company will also display TextureCompass.

The TextureCompass applications kit showcases Nouryon’s natural rheology modifiers, including Structure Silk, XL, and Solanace starches, Amaze XT polymer, and Cekol 150 cellulose gum.

“The kit offers an immersive customer experience through a base emulsion enhanced by these rheology modifiers, allowing customers to explore texture, rheology, and aesthetic alterations across 12 prototypes, demonstrating various consumer benefits,” says the Freidinger. 

Nouryon will showcase live demonstrations of its TextureCompass and BeautyCreations tool at the trade show.