Pepper power: Polymeric nanoparticles and natural phytochemicals revolutionize anti-aging cosmetics

08 Nov 2023 --- In a world where appearances matter, the quest for youthful, radiant skin remains paramount. In light of this, recent research has explored Peperomia pellucida’s phytochemicals and their ability to inhibit enzymes linked to skin aging and wrinkle formation. Another study has shown how encapsulating black pepper’s alkaloid, piperine, in polymeric nanoparticles, can unlock its benefits for topical applications, paving the way for use in the cosmetics sector.

Black pepper is a common kitchen spice celebrated in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicinal practices for its antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, share the authors.

The study compared black pepper grain powder to whole grains and found that it yielded higher piperine concentration and better antioxidant activity, making it ideal for further investigation.

Encapsulation of the extract into polymeric nanoparticles, specifically polycaprolactone (PCL), proved successful, marking a step in utilizing piperine’s properties for cosmetics and skin care. 

Alkaloids are used in cosmetics formulations to add antimicrobial and antioxidant benefits.

Enhancing piperine’s potential
By encapsulating piperine within PCL nanoparticles, a controlled and sustained release of the compound is achieved, making it a valuable ingredient for skin care products. The extract-containing PCL nanoparticles show slower release and lower flux (Image credit: Nanoparticle study).

Additionally, the nanoparticles maintain stability while gradually releasing piperine, ensuring its efficacy and benefits are maximized in cosmetic applications, assure the researchers.

Piperine’s therapeutic attributes enable potential applications ranging from lightening discoloration and reducing cellulite and wrinkles to soothing and protecting the skin from UV radiation.

“Pepper extract encapsulation efficiency in terms of piperine concentration was 84.8 ± 3.5%,” share the authors.

“Typically, the extracts obtained from black pepper contain alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins and terpenes, which are substances with recognized biological activities.”

In related research, we shared studies that harnessed the potential of Dendrobium anosmum, a species of orchid, to synthesize zinc oxide nanoparticles to combat acne, and the untapped potential of hyaluronic acid-based nanogels.

The culprits: Enzymes and skin aging
In a separate study on phytochemicals derived from Peperomia pellucida, researchers explored the inhibition of aging enzymes, including elastase and collagenase.

These enzymes break down elastin and collagen, which are essential for skin strength and elasticity. 

When these enzymes are overexpressed, the skin’s structural integrity is compromised, leading to the aging process and wrinkle formation, explain the researchers. Hence, blocking these enzymes presents a promising strategy for preserving youthful, resilient skin.

Nature’s arsenal
The researchers identified several phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida that displayed significant potential for inhibiting the enzymes associated with skin aging. Acacetin, procyanidin, phlobaphene, patuloside A and B, palmitic acid and hexahydroxydiphenic acid emerged as top candidates.(Image credit: Peperomia pellucida study).

Natural sources have long been reservoirs of anti-aging solutions, say the authors. Phytochemicals, derived from plants, offer a multitude of mechanisms to restore the balance between skin regeneration and degeneration.

Peperomia pellucida, belonging to the pepper family, grows in regions with low sun exposure and lush, loose soils. This plant has a history of medicinal use, treating skin conditions, hypertension and mental health issues — notably, it is renowned for its high antioxidant properties, outline the authors.

Outperforming kojic acid
The phytochemical compounds demonstrated multi-target inhibition of enzymes associated with skin aging, a vital feature for combating the aging process.

The study explored the interactions between the phytochemicals and the skin aging enzymes. In particular, the authors highlight essential interactions that contribute to the inhibitory activity of elastase and collagenase.

Hyperpigmentation, another factor in skin aging, results from excessive melanin production regulated by tyrosinase. Kojic acid, a known compound for managing hyperpigmentation, inhibits tyrosinase. 

However, the study revealed that Peperomia pellucida’s phytochemicals outperformed Kojic acid regarding docking scores (measuring intermolecular interactions) and inhibition constants.

The results from this study suggest that phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida are promising for developing anti-aging skin care products. Given the demand for natural, safe skin care solutions, Peperomia pellucida is presented for use in the cosmetics industry.

Nonetheless, further studies are needed to harness the phytochemicals’ potential fully, in vitro and in vivo, advise the researchers. 

In previous research on natural antioxidants, we shared findings on the enzymes superoxide dismutase, yellow herb Gentiana lutea and red seaweed Gelidium corneum.

By Venya Patel