Plant and marine microbial biosurfactants deemed “promising” for natural cosmeceutical applications

18 Apr 2023 --- New research on microbes for creating bio-surfactants – natural cleaning agents – and cosmetics is increasing as the industry slowly transitions away from unsustainable chemicals. Scientists find that microbial biosurfactants have the potential to enhance cosmetics and are an “exciting area” of research with “important health implications.” Bio-actives from marine microbes and plant saponins have shown “great potential” as biosurfactants.

“Natural plant-derived saponins have shown great promise as a potential source for biosurfactants due to their desirable physicochemical and biological attributes,” shares authors at BioMed Research International. 

“These glycosides are amphiphilic, nonionic surfactants that display a range of surfactant properties, making them suitable for use in various applications, including personal care products, detergents and agricultural formulations.” 

The authors of the chapter “Cosmetic Application of Surfactants from Marine Microbes” in Marine Surfactants Preparations and Applications detail the potential of marine microbes for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. 

“Biosurfactants [from marine microbes] have several benefits versus chemically derived surfactants, including improved recyclability, increased environmental friendliness, and, in certain circumstances, higher foaming abilities and preserved effectiveness even at extreme pH and temperatures,” they share.

“Although marine biosurfactants have received less attention than terrestrial areas, they have several qualities that make them beneficial and potent for various medicinal implementations. However, because it is challenging to extract and grow these marine microbes, the majority of the marine microbial world is still uncharted.”

Cosmetic applications
The authors of the chapter on marine microbes outline its uses for anti-aging, in toothpaste, sunscreen, face wash and shampoo, skin protective cream and moisturizer.Scientists find that microbial biosurfactants have the potential to enhance cosmetics.

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) for instance, can be replaced with sophorolipid biosurfactant, derived from marine actinobacterium Nocardiopsis VITSISB, according to the research. Another SLS replacer is rhamnolipids, manufactured via a natural fermentation process from vegetable oil and is mild when used on the hair and skin.

“Candida bombicola ATCC 22214 produces sophorolipids, glycolipid biosurfactants commonly found in toothpaste. It also produces detergents, emulsifiers, solubilizers, foaming agents and wetting agents,” they highlight.

For sunscreens, the most-used biosurfactant is surfactin, according to the authors. “This biosurfactant is synthesized by the organism Bacillus subtilis, which is exploited in the maize business.”

Furthermore, “sophorolipids are used on the skin to protect, moisturize, and lubricate it,” allowing for higher skin water content.

An example of a skin surface moisturizer like ceramides are monosylerythrotol lipids (MELs) – “with equivalent properties provide an acceptable replacement at lower production costs.” They have proven water-retention, moisturizing and skin-improving benefits.

Soapy saponins
Saponins are bioactives derived from plants that cause a soapy lather. 

“The presence of saponins in various plant parts opens up the possibility of using them as a sustainable and renewable resource for the production of biosurfactants,” note the authors at BioMed Research International. “With more research, saponins may become a crucial component in developing new and innovative products in the future.”

“Nowadays, saponins are still principally derived from various plants, such as Saponaria officinalis, oleandrin, foxglove, soapbark tree Quillaja saponaria, licorice, and horse chestnuts.”

In addition, the authors share that saponins have been studied for antimicrobial, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory properties – making it essential for new cosmetics or therapeutics.

Multi-functional applications
The authors on marine microbes suggest that bio-substances can be used as emulsifiers and demulsifiers, foaming agents, wetting agents, functional food components, spreading agents and detergents, to name a few.

“Microbial carotenoids; mycosporin; and its comparable amino acids, chitosan, fatty acids and other substances may supply a trustworthy and quicker alternative to other biological substances employed in photoprotective, skin-whitening and anti-aging treatments,” they add.Biosurfactants in cosmetics can be used to emulsify oils, enhance the solubility of active ingredients, and moisturize the skin.

Additionally, researchers at BioMed Research International carried out a literature review, finding that several studies have shown that biosurfactants produced by microorganisms are beneficial for cosmetics, with their ability to emulsify oils, enhance the solubility of active ingredients, and moisturize the skin.

What makes a biosurfactant?
Authors at BioMed Research International explain that biosurfactants have a biological origin and are surface-active chemicals from plants, bacteria, yeast, or filamentous fungi. “They are distinguished from traditional surfactants by their biological origin and do not have any added chemical synthesis step during its production.”

“There are two primary categories of biosurfactants: those with a high molecular weight and those with a low molecular weight. The most prominent examples include rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and threhalolipids, although mannosylerythritol lipids and surfactin are also significant bioemulsifiers.”

Furthermore, marine microbes include algae, bacteria and fungi. “Marine organisms have some combinations that highlight the aquatic habitats. These compounds are superior to others in their probable use in beauty and cosmetic sectors,” underscore the chapter’s authors.

Biosurfactants are classified into glycolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolpids, rhamnolipids, lipopeptides and lipoproteins, surfactants, corynomycolic acids, polymeric biosurfactants, liposan, along with fatty acids, phospholipids and neutral lipids.

Healthier future
Microbial biotechnology will enable more sustainable alternatives to persistent or harmful chemicals and is, therefore, better for the health and the environment.

Many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages, as well as low cost, stability and biodegradability

In March, L’Oréal linked up with Unilever and Kao, undertaking a new venture to craft new sustainable beauty ingredients derived from living organisms. 

Unilever also bought a range of renewable and biodegradable surfactants known as NextLab linear alkylbenzene to produce linear alkylbenzene sulfonate, used in many of the company’s brands, including Persil, Cif and Sunlight.

Last year, Evonik invested in the world’s first production plant of bio-based rhamnolipids in Slovakia. 

By Venya Patel