Plant-based boom: Study finds natural ingredients boast better antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits

A review examining plant-based ingredients for cosmetics found they outperform synthetic and chemical ingredients due to their antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits without harmful side effects. Looking into the power of plants, the research details various extracts and their potential role in cosmeceuticals. 

The review notes the growing customer demand for natural products and the abilities plant-based ingredients could bring to the industry. Published in Process Biochemistry, the study highlights natural alternatives to chemical ingredients in cosmetics amid an expanding market for safe beauty products.

The authors, from the Immanuel Kant Baltic Federal University, Russia, say plant-based cosmetics interest consumers as they have fewer side effects, although there is a “lack of research reports on plants’ anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.”

The review stresses that natural products are often less affordable than their synthetic or chemical counterparts, which causes some consumers to choose the cheaper alternative.

Chemical options may address specific skin conditions and “fulfill the purpose of the product,” however, the study points out that such products are often unsuitable for sensitive skin. 

“Until recently, there was no scientific evidence to assess the safety and effectiveness of plant-based cosmetics,” the study says. It also stresses that safety measures for plant-based cosmetics may be complex and challenging — therefore suggesting appropriate safety requirements should be established.

The study’s authors stress that consumers seek safe and natural products.Growth of natural cosmetics

The study’s authors stress that consumers seek safe and natural products, which drives demand and market growth. This is especially true for products that aim to rejuvenate and improve the quality of skin, hair, and scent.

The cosmetics examined are defined as products applied to the external body, aiming to purify or alter appearance. It includes various personal care products such as shampoo, facial cosmetics, moisturizers, deodorants, toothpaste, and perfumes.

The study asserts that cosmeceuticals and herbal cosmeceuticals are pharmaceutically effective. To get the US Department of Agriculture label “chemical free,” the products must contain a minimum of 95% natural ingredients. 

The authors claim that some natural ingredients do benefit the skin, such as increasing its elasticity, maintaining a correct pH balance and the protective lipid barrier, while not harming the environment. 

Potentially healing ingredients

Apart from anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial activities, the study also looked at wound-healing ability and toxicity, based on extracts from Erióphorum angustifólium Honck.

The researchers prepared the plant extracts using three solvents, followed by hydrogels using dry extracts. All the extracts were antioxidants. 

“They all showed a decreased activity in lipoxygenase enzymes, proteases, and inhibition of protein denaturation,” notes the study. It adds that the plant extract also showed wound-healing activity in skin cells.The plant extract also showed wound-healing activity in skin cells. 

“Studies have shown that the active ingredients contained in E. angustifolium penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. In addition, hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts have shown a wide range of activity,” write the authors.

“Therefore, they can be considered an interesting alternative for dermatological and cosmetic preparations with biologically active action.”

Plants in cosmetics

The authors detail polyphenolic components, such as phenolic acids, tannins, lignans, flavonoids, neolignans, and anthocyanins, as the most popular among plant organic substances. 

Because of their chemical structure, they have anti-allergic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties, making them suitable for sensitive or damaged skin and overall dermatological cosmetics. 

Similarly, plant sterols — phytosterols — components naturally found in vegetable oils have demonstrated photoprotective and antioxidant properties through several studies. They are used in cosmetics targeting eyes and lips, deodorants, detergents, and hair care products such as shampoo and conditioner.

Fatty acids are also highlighted as essential for increasing absorption into the skin. 

Fatty acids are highlighted as essential for increasing absorption into the skin.The authors say: “Fatty acids with a short carbon chain penetrate through the skin more effectively than fatty acids with a long carbon chain. Therefore, fatty acids are used in the production of anti-acne creams and sprays and hair care products.”

The study explains that the plant extract Rubus ideaus is enriched with fatty acids and that it has shown promising results in cosmetics production because it improves skin moisture retention, increases skin lipid production, and stimulates collagen synthesis.

However, fatty acids in cosmetics also have a negative side due to their high reactivity. Natural products enriched with fatty acids also have a shorter shelf life, but the deterioration process slows down when antioxidants are added. 

In the industry

Several companies have recently highlighted the benefits, demand, and need for plant-based natural products.

Innova Market Insights previously released data showing an average of 44% annual growth in product launches with plant-based claims between 2018 and 2023, where 54% occurred in Europe.

Last month, Symrise unveiled several plant-based ingredients that serve to protect leave-on cosmetic formulations, such as emulsion, serums, and conditioners, from microorganisms

Additionally, Nordic Bioproducts Group and Givaudan recently expanded their pool of plant-based ingredients.