Popular perfumes exposed: Study reveals “disturbing” link to hormone disruption

06 Mar 2024 --- Ten perfumes are analyzed for their potential influence on the endocrine system. A study in Cosmetics, MDPI, explores their interaction with Cytochrome P450 19 (CYP19 or aromatase), a key enzyme in converting testosterone to 17β-estradiol, the final step in estrogen biosynthesis.

The following perfumes were examined: Bvlgari Man Wood Essence, Dolce Gabbana Q, Montale Intense Roses Musk, Narciso Rodriguez Pure Musc For Her, Sisley Soir d’Orient, Karl Lagerfeld Her, Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Intense, Dior Sauvage Elixir, Kayali Invite Only Amber 23 and Mugler Aura.

“All ten randomly selected products showed significantly inhibited aromatase activity, especially when the perfume was exposed to UV light. Therefore, all perfumes tested in this study met the criteria of endocrine disruptors,” find the researchers.

Chemical cocktail
The study underscores the effect of Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes, specifically CYP19’s role in metabolic processes relating to hormones within the human body. They are seen as susceptible to various xenobiotics in cosmetic products, pollutants, food and pharmaceuticals. Montale’s Intense Roses Musk displayed an inhibitory effect, decreasing 17β-estradiol production by 88% (Image credit: Montale).

“Chemical compounds known as ‘endocrine disruptors’ have the potential to interfere with the normal balance of steroid and thyroid hormones, which can adversely affect human development, behavior and reproduction. Parabens, UV screens, phthalates and musks are the major groups of such perfume components,” write the authors.

According to the research, Montale’s Intense Roses Musk displayed an inhibitory effect, decreasing 17β-estradiol production by 88%.

When the perfumes were exposed to UV light, a different perfume with a low baseline inhibitory effect showed an increase in inhibitory capacity afterward. However, the inhibitory effect of Intense Roses Musk stayed constant.

The study utilized high-performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry to investigate the impact of perfumes on the aromatization process.

Mixture complexity and health impact
Researchers are concerned about the collective impact of perfume formulations due to their complexity, which includes a variety of aromatic compounds, oils, additives and excipients, such as “UV filters, antioxidants, antimicrobials, fixatives, and solvents.” They are also worried about other scented personal care products in combination with perfumes.When the perfumes were exposed to UV light, a different perfume with a low baseline inhibitory effect showed an increase in inhibitory capacity afterward.

Consumers encounter perfume chemicals through inhalation and skin contact. The study highlights the potential systemic exposure, considering the penetration of perfume constituents through the skin and their accumulation in adipose tissue.

It also emphasizes the need to test perfumes as complete mixtures rather than assessing individual ingredients in isolation. However, “little information is available on the combined effect of chemicals on human health.”

Scholars emphasize that aromatase, present in the brain, adipose tissue and gonads, performs a variety of roles. For example, locally generated brain estrogens impact behavior and sex differentiation.

According to the study, aromatase inhibitors are employed in treating some diseases, such as estrogen-dependent tumors, but they can have long-lasting side effects, such as sexual inactivity. While it is beneficial for healthy males to maintain aromatase activity, aromatase inhibitors are used to treat infertility in cases of testicular dysfunction by increasing testosterone levels and enhancing spermatogenesis.The study emphasizes testing perfumes as mixtures rather than assessing individual ingredients.

Fragrance dispute
The study states regulation in this sector is less stringent than in the pharmaceuticals space despite the widespread use of personal care products containing perfumes, so it calls for rigorous testing considering the potential health risks associated with exposure to fragrance compounds.

The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials and Creme Global recently collaborated to gather data on consumer exposure to approximately 3,000 fragrance ingredients. The findings showed that consumer exposure to fragrance ingredients remained low, below established safety thresholds.

However, previous research by the Environmental Working Group warned about the health risks of everyday scented household cleaning products. In response, the Fragrance Creators Association argued that VOCs are valuable and not all compounds are harmful.

By Venya Patel