Researchers find cosmeceutical potential for lesser-known yellow-green microalgae

17 May 2023 --- Researchers have found proof-of-concept for the cosmeceutical application of extracts from the yellow-green microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus (T. minutus). Bioactivity assessment revealed that the extracts exhibit high total antioxidant capacity and significant elastase inhibitory activity for anti-aging benefits.

“To the best of our knowledge, this is the first attempt to integrate bioactivity assessment, and application of T. minutus extracts as cosmeceuticals,” the study highlights.

Extracts from T. minutus were formulated into a skin care cream and a face serum.

The researchers found the extract to display significant protection from UVA-induced cell damage by decreasing oxidative stress. In addition, T. minutus extracts exhibit anti-inflammatory effects.

“Our findings underline that T. minutus extract is a promising bioactive ingredient with potential use as a raw material in cosmetics,” the authors state.

“Microalgae are a popular and valuable source of bioactive molecules in the health and wellness industry. Launching new or underused microalgae strains with high bioactivity is desired to support the development of innovative new cosmetic products for the health and wellness industry.”

The research, published in Cosmetics, received funding from the EU’s Horizon 2020 under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie grant agreement.

“Largely untapped” green resource
The researchers spotlight that although the applications of microalgae in cosmetic products have recently received significant attention in skin treatment, most studies are restricted to the use of Chlorella or Arthrospira strains. The researchers developed face cream and serum using yellow-green algae extract, as proof-of-concept.

“Microalgae diversity, as an asset in the cosmetics industry, remains largely untapped due to an apparent lack of studies for assessing the bioactivity and utility of new microalgae species as primary active ingredients,” they say.

“The expansion of new products from natural ‘green’ sources, such as microalgae, has significant potential in the area of bio-based products and procession.”

The study details that Xanthophyceae is a group of photosynthetic organisms found in freshwater, marine waters and moist soils. “Among the Xanthophyceae group, the freshwater alga T. minutus remains a rather unknown microalga,” say the authors.

“T. minutus is a valuable source of bioactive metabolites, including eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), antioxidants, pigments and structured triacylglycerols. Despite its potential, there are limited published data concerning its physiology, biochemistry and molecular biology.”

Natural-based dermal formula
The researchers obtained materials from various industry suppliers, including Sigma-Aldrich, Lonza, Gibco, Ecoduna, Seppic, Jungbunzlauer, BASF, Croda and Galaxy Surfactants.

The researchers prepared an oil-in-water emulsion cream and an aqueous gel (face serum) containing 0.1% and 0.5% weight per weight T. minutus extracts were prepared. Quality control assessment tests were used for assessing the organoleptic characteristics and homogeneity of both formulations for three months.

The researchers also tested the samples’ pH stability and visual appearance to determine possible physicochemical changes in the samples compared with changes expected in standard storage conditions.

The results showed that T. minutus extract displayed the highest antioxidant capacity compared to the other strains of algae. Moreover, T. minutus extract exhibited a higher inhibition of the skin-regulating enzyme elastase.

The authors suggest that apart from skin-aging and anti-wrinkle effects, elastase is also involved in various other diseases, such as inflammation, rheumatoid arthritis, cystic fibrosis, chronic obstructive airway disease, psoriasis and delayed wound healing.

With the “promising” potency of T. minutus extract, they recommend future studies to explore and build on the results.

By Radhika Sikaria

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