Revolutionizing skin care with sustainable seaweed and algae innovations featuring fucoidan extracts

26 Feb 2024 --- We explore the ocean for cosmetic ingredients with Active Concepts and Marinova. In this first of a two-part series, Personal Care Insights learns about seaweed and algae benefits, sustainable sourcing, extraction challenges and innovative fucoidan extracts for skin care.

“Marine-derived ingredients have become popular in personal care products due to their unique properties and potential skin care benefits. Sourced from various marine organisms, such as algae, seaweed and marine plants, they are rich in essential nutrients, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, providing nourishment for healthy skin,” says Raphaëlle Brunet-Tron, marketing manager EU at Active Concepts, a personal care ingredients supplier.

“Many marine ingredients excel in hydration and moisturization, with algae extracts known for their water-retaining properties. Linked to anti-aging benefits, these ingredients may reduce fine lines, enhance skin elasticity and contribute to a more youthful complexion. Additionally, marine-derived ingredients exhibit anti-inflammatory and calming properties, making them suitable for soothing sensitive skin.”

The ingredients may also provide environmental protection against pollution, UV radiation, offering exfoliation and detoxification benefits.

“The industry’s growing focus on sustainability has led cosmetic companies to source marine ingredients responsibly, aligning with consumer demand for eco-friendly and ethical beauty products. Examples include seaweed extracts, algae extracts, marine collagen, sea salt and marine peptides,” adds Brunet-Tron.

Fucoidans for skin elasticity and brightening
Australian biotechnology company Marinova produces two “unique” fucoidan ingredients for topical applications.

Undaria pinnatifida or Wakame (Image credit: Marinova).Brunet-Tron explains that fucoidans are long-chain polysaccharides found in brown seaweeds.

Dr. Ellie Paine, business development and scientific officer at Marinova says: “While in nature they serve to protect the seaweed from water-borne pathogens and other environmental challenges, scientific research demonstrates that their bioactive properties are also highly beneficial to skin health. High purity, certified organic fucoidans offer clinically proven soothing, protecting, brightening and healthy aging properties.”

“Maritech Reverse is a high purity fucoidan extract with clinically proven soothing and protecting properties. The award-winning skin care ingredient is extracted from wild-grown Undaria pinnatifida seaweed hand-harvested from the clean coastal waters of Patagonia, Argentina and Tasmania, island state of Australia.”

“Maritech Reverse is a natural, soothing ingredient designed to maintain the youthful appearance of skin by protecting its building blocks, enhancing dermal condition and balancing the skin microbiome. Participants in human clinical studies experienced reductions in wrinkle depth, skin roughness and increased skin elasticity. In one study, a 60% overall improvement in skin appearance was reported by an expert clinician, while 80% of participants reported a visual improvement in skin firmness and elasticity.”

Paine spotlights Maritech Bright, a highly characterized, certified organic fucoidan-polyphenol complex that is derived from wild Fucus vesiculosus seaweed harvested by hand along the coastline of Nova Scotia, Canada.

“Maritech Bright combines the potent bioactivity of fucoidan with the high antioxidant and skin-brightening properties of marine polyphenols. These compounds provide superior antioxidant activity and protect against the damaging effects of free radicals. Maritech Bright combines these marine actives in one convenient ingredient,” says Paine.

“The skin brightening activity of Maritech Bright has been clinically proven in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study at very low inclusion rates. A dermatological assessment concluded that 65% of subjects showed an improvement in skin spot appearance.”

Sustainable sourcing practices
Brunet-Tron of Active Concepts says the company focuses on sustainable technology and green chemistry and has directed its attention to algae derivatives as a sustainable and natural source of cosmetic benefits. 

Green algae show potential for producing oils and valuable byproducts in an environmentally sustainable manner.“Green algae show great potential for producing oils and other valuable byproducts in an environmentally sustainable manner. These byproducts can be utilized in cosmetics to impart restorative and protective properties to the skin, enhancing hydration and promoting a plumper appearance by rehydrating skin cells,” she highlights.

Meanwhile, Paine of Marinova adds: “Sustainability initiatives are evident throughout the entire length of the Maritech organic fucoidan supply chain. Maritech organic fucoidans are not derived from seaweeds grown or farmed in parts of the world prone to industrial, human or agricultural contamination or where environmentally sustainable harvesting practices cannot be assured.”

“Harvesting operations are conducted by hand and are always in accordance with the world’s best practice. Marinova’s sustainability practices align with key SDGs identified by the UN and adhere to the principles of the Nagoya Protocol. They include using an invasive seaweed species to support biodiversity in the marine environment.”

She notes the 2023 NutraIngredients Europe Awards’ Editor’s Award for Sustainability Initiative of the Year went to Maritech Organic Fucoidans, and the product line was a finalist for the Sustainable Beauty Awards.

Extracting and processing challenges
Marinova established vertically integrated operations over the last 20 years that now allow for “oversight of the entire Maritech organic fucoidan supply chain, providing transparency and the ability to address challenges as they arise.” 

Marinova says harvesting operations are conducted by hand and are always in accordance with the world’s best practice.“The proprietary Maritech extraction process has revolutionized the fucoidan market. Manufacturers of fucoidan have traditionally utilized solvents to precipitate the fucoidan polymer from crude seaweed extracts. This traditional methodology may lead to contaminants being present in the final extract. Fucoidans manufactured in this way can suffer from many shortfalls; their quality can be inconsistent; their chemical integrity may be compromised, and their bioactivity may be diminished.” 

“Maritech extraction technology overcomes these problems. The process does not use organic solvents and produces fucoidan extracts that remain unadulterated in chemical structure and free from solvent residues. The mild, aqueous process also ensures the resulting extracts comply with the most rigorous quality standards and regulatory requirements.”

Furthermore, Brunet-Tron of Active Concepts adds: “Navigating the extraction and processing of marine ingredients for the personal care industry demands meticulous attention to ensure product quality is upheld. Robust quality control measures, from sourcing to final formulation, are pivotal in identifying and addressing potential issues.”

“Challenges encompass identifying sustainable sources to prevent harm to marine ecosystems, necessitating the adoption of responsible sourcing and harvesting methods. Collaborating with reputable suppliers and obtaining certifications for sustainable practices ensures the responsible sourcing of marine ingredients. Addressing seasonal variability requires formulators to adapt formulations based on factors such as season, water temperature and environmental conditions to maintain consistent product quality.”

According to Brunet-Tron, the difficulties can be lessened by taking calculated risks, like funding R&D to take advantage of cutting-edge extraction and processing techniques. When adding marine ingredients to personal care products, she says adaptive processes are made possible by ongoing monitoring of the effects on the environment, product quality, and efficacy to help maintain high standards of sustainability and quality.

Part two of this interview will be published tomorrow.

By Venya Patel