Dive into marine-based cosmetic ingredients with Active Concepts, Marinova and Univar Solutions

27 Feb 2024 --- Personal Care Insights dives into the latest developments in marine-based cosmetic ingredients with Active Concepts, Marinova and Univar Solutions.

Active Concepts shares how it harnesses biotechnology to grow algal cells in culture cells sustainably, preventing the need for harvest. Univar Solutions discusses the benefits of red seaweed after its recent agreement with Gelymar to distribute carrageenans in the US and Canada, while Marinova underscores the increasing research interest in fucoidans while sharing how the biotechnology company ensures consumer safety. 

Innova Market Insights data indicates a 5% average annual growth (October 2018 – September 2023) in the number of personal care and beauty launches that mention marine and sea on the packaging. Half of these products were launched in Europe. Skin Care was the leading category, but Body Care launches grew the fastest at 13%.

Facial Neck/Moisturizers led these launches (18%), with concealers emerging as the fastest-growing subcategory for products that use marine ingredients at 65% CAGR in the same period. Meanwhile, chlorella extract leads innovations at 31%, followed by Laminaria digitata extract at 27% and Hydrolyzed algin at 10%.

Active Concepts’ biotech innovations
Raphaëlle Brunet-Tron, marketing manager EU at Active Concepts, explains how its AcquaSeal Algae helps prevent aging skin by providing hydration, proliferation, cellular renewal and anti-inflammatory properties. Brunet-Tron says it enhances the effectiveness of skin care products and fits in with the expanding fashion for the marine-inspired look, “offering a youthful and refreshed appearance reminiscent of the sea.”

“As sustainability concerns increase, we look to develop ingredients that promote biodiversity and environmental protection. As a result of thriving in such diverse and extreme environments, green algae, such as Chlamydomonas reinhardtii, produce an array of unique bioactive complex lipids and fatty acids. After sourcing Chlamydomonas reinhardtii algal cells from Massachusetts, US, Active Concepts continues to grow these algal cells in cell culture,” she says.

Seaweed sporophyll in Marinova’s laboratory.“Chlamydomonas reinhardtii cell culture offers the opportunity to grow algal cells under controlled conditions. These methods supply a sustainable source of Chlamydomonas reinhardtii cells without the influence of seasonal harvest, variations in quality, or environmental disruption for sourcing. The biotechnology of growing algal cells in cell culture can also limit a negative impact on the environment, using fewer resources and reducing transportation and CO2 outputs while providing the means to create consistent active ingredients.”

Brunet-Tron also praises Active Concepts’ full range of BiEau Actif botanical waters based on green, red and brown algae. “Plants, especially algae, can purify and retain water within their cells as a survival mechanism. This cellular water, often called ‘plant essence,’ presents an opportunity to create a nourishing, isotonic solution suitable for enhancing skin and hair in personal care applications.”

“BiEau Actif botanical waters integrate sustainable beauty practices with science, offering brands essential ingredients to align with their goals. The formulation of botanical waters supports the natural balance of the skin, scalp and hair, utilizing the inherent properties of plants to harmonize with the skin. These waters set brands apart with distinctive origin stories and effective beauty benefits.Through the development of the BiEau Actif botanical waters line, Active Concepts optimizes raw material sourcing, particularly from cultured algal sources, ensuring minimal environmental impact, she asserts.

Univar Solutions’ carrageenan portfolio
Following Univar Solutions’ partnership with Gelymar, Alex Walther, technical services manager of Beauty and Personal Care at the chemicals company, tells us how Gelymar’s carrageenan portfolio addresses the increasing demand for sustainable ingredients.

“Gelymar’s Gely Blue carrageenan portfolio answers the increasing demand for sustainable and ethically sourced ingredients using Rhodophyceae (red seaweed) as their feedstock.”

“Rhodophyceae is a renewable and abundant natural resource in the Chilean Ocean that does not require arable land, freshwater or fertilizers. Additionally, Gelymar works with the authorities, scientists and fishermen for responsible cultivation and harvesting to ensure minimum environmental impact and resource sustainability, says Walther. 

“Gely Blue consists of six carrageenan ingredients that provide natural rheology modification and sensory enhancement solutions across gels, lotions and creams for face and body care, color cosmetics, lip care and toothpaste.”

Gely Blue carrageenan for texture innovationDr Ellie Paine, Marinova.
Walther provides insights into the benefits of Gely Blue carrageenan for formulators in creating textures for beauty applications.

“Gely Blue carrageenans offer a natural and organic way to enhance texture, stability and the sensory profile for beauty and personal care formulations. Carrageenan can create a wide range of textures from thin gels, liquid lotions or even semi-solid gels or creams.”

“These different textures and functionalities depend on the carrageenan type: Kappa, lambda or iota. Individually, they each provide unique textures with kappa and iota grades forming thermo-reversible gels and the lambda grades, thickening the water phase effectively. Blending grades provide the ability to fine-tune the desired texture and optimize the sensory experience. In addition to viscosity, carrageenans improve the formula stability due to the high-water holding capacity, preventing syneresis and separation of phases,” he asserts.

Carrageenan is frequently used in cosmetics as a gelling, thickening and binding agent. Carrageenan lends a smoother, creamier texture to skin care products and can improve their permeability and efficacy in moisturizing formulas like lotions and creams. Carrageenan enhances the performance of toothpaste and oral care products, particularly their superior stabilization and moisture retention, says Walther.

“Gelymar plays an active role in promoting the safe use of hydrocolloids and sustainable farming methods through its participation in Marinalg International as well as its role as a founder and directive member of COPRAM, a Chilean association of seaweed farmers that promotes public and private actions to guarantee the sustainability of Chilean algae resources.”

Skin health and consumer safety
Dr. Ellie Paine, business development and scientific officer at Marinova, says cosmetics formulators are starting to realize how much fucoidan’s bioactivity can be used for skin health applications. “In line with the rising global demand, Marinova is expanding its state-of-the-art fucoidan extraction facility in Tasmania, Australia. The significant capital advancement will allow the company to triple its fucoidan production capacity.”

“Global scientific interest in fucoidan is rapidly increasing. There are now more than 3,500 published papers attesting to its bioactivities. Marinova has an active research and development program with innovative scientific research regularly being published,” she explains. 

Fucus vesiculosus seaweed.Paine shares that when formulators choose Maritech organic fucoidans, “they are buying into a commitment to provide the highest quality and most effective fucoidan extracts on the market.”

“Marinova adheres to meticulous quality assurance protocols and safety standards, implementing rigorous testing procedures and traceability systems throughout its operations. This extends from seaweed harvest and fucoidan extraction through packaging, release and delivery. Coupled with proprietary advanced manufacturing technologies, these quality systems ensure batch-to-batch consistency and position Maritech branded ingredients as the world’s only high purity, certified organic fucoidans with global regulatory acceptance,” she continues.

Meanwhile, Brunet-Tron says Active Concepts’ “ingredients undergo rigorous testing, supported by a comprehensive set of toxicological data and regulatory documentation, ensuring their safety and compliance with industry standards.”

“Our commitment to transparency and accountability is reflected in the thorough evaluation of various aspects, including dermal, ocular and skin irritation, sensitization, and biodegradability. These tests provide a robust foundation for establishing the innocuity of our ingredients.

Moreover, she says they go beyond safety assessments by prioritizing efficacy data to validate targeted benefits on the skin. For instance, the AcquaSeal Algae undergoes testing to demonstrate its effectiveness in anti-pollution action, moisturization and skin genomic and cellular hydration.

She concludes: “These proven efficacy data not only showcase the performance of our ingredients but also underscore our dedication to providing products that deliver tangible and beneficial results for skin health and well-being. Our commitment to safety and efficacy positions our ingredients as reliable and innovative choices in the personal care industry.”

In part one of our series about marine-based cosmetic ingredients, we learned about seaweed and algae benefits, sustainable sourcing, extraction challenges and innovative fucoidan extracts for skin care.

By Venya Patel