SCCS determines the safety of aluminum as cosmetic ingredient

03 Feb 2023 --- The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has published its final opinion on the use of aluminum in cosmetic products – other than deodorants, antiperspirants, lipsticks and toothpaste. After a commenting period of eight weeks – from May 30 to July 2021 – after its initial publication, SCCS concludes that aluminum compounds are safe when used within the maximum levels indicated in the review.

“As aluminum does not belong to substances classified as CMR 1A or B, only exposure from cosmetic uses was considered in this safety assessment with the exposure assessment based on maximum use levels for cosmetic ingredients,” the SCCS clarifies.

While 1A stands for chemical substances for which there is scientific evidence based on humans that the substance is carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR), 1B stands for chemical substances for which there is scientific evidence based on animals.

Users of cosmetic products may be exposed to aluminum via three different routes: the dermal route, which applies to all cosmetics, the inhalation route, which applies to spray products only and the oral route, which applies to lipsticks and toothpaste only.

These routes require three different sets of bioavailability and retention factors, the SCCS details.

Bioavailability factors are the proportion of a substance that enters the circulation when it comes into contact with the body and is used to estimate internal exposure from external exposure.

“In total, around 5,300 formulations were identified that contained aluminum compounds as ingredients. A total of 51 different compounds were identified. The reason why aluminum compounds are used in these different product categories is because [they] may absorb oil, sweat, or odor. Furthermore, they may function as pigments and thickening agents,” the SCCS shares.

Aluminum salts in antiperspirants form insoluble hydroxide polymer gel plugs within sweat ducts.Aluminum applications
In the report, the committee elucidates that aluminum salts in antiperspirants, such as aluminum chlorohydrate, form insoluble aluminum hydroxide polymer gel plugs within sweat ducts to prevent sweat from reaching the surface of the skin temporarily.

These substances are soluble at very low pH in the formulation; however, once applied to the skin, they form chemically inert complexes with basic components of sweat and skin.

Additionally, aluminum colloidal colorant “lakes” are mainly used in lipsticks. In contrast, insoluble minerals are used in toothpaste primarily to act as mild abrasives and provide shine and gloss benefits by polishing the enamel.

Recent cosmetic ingredient safety updates
The committee recently recommended that alpha-arbutin can safely be used in face creams up to a maximum concentration of 2% and in body lotions up to a concentration of 0.5%.

Beta-arbutin can be safely used in face creams up to a maximum concentration of 7%. Both alpha- and beta-arbutin can be used together at the recommended concentration.

A consultation on the harmonized classification and labeling of tea tree, Melaleuca alternifolia extract and essential oil has been submitted by Poland and received by the European Chemicals Agency for revision. The country has submitted a proposal flagging the hazardous effects of tea tree oil (TTO) on human health and toxic effects on aquatic life.

Those with relevant information on TTO are encouraged to provide it to the dossier submitter. The deadline for commenting is January 27, 2023, and the legal deadline for the opinion adoption is May 18, 2024.

In November, the SCCS shared its revised opinion on vitamin A – retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate – used in cosmetics and supplements to support skin health, cell growth and immunity.

The scientific body concluded that the overall exposure to vitamin A in cosmetics at concentrations of 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE) in body lotion is safe. Also, 0.3% RE for other leave-on and rinse-off products is safe.

However, to the question of safety from “overall or total exposure,” SCCS said it cannot draw a conclusion. This is due to the inconsistencies the committee found in studies.

Edited by Radhika Sikaria

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