“Sephora kids” spark concern with adult skin care: Dermatologists and social media react

16 Feb 2024 --- Social media is exploding with complaints and concerns about “Sephora kids” who are delving into expensive adult skin care and becoming enamored with anti-aging products.

Dermatologists express worries over skin care use by children as it could provoke allergies or eczema. The British Association for Dermatologists warns that kids using skin products with anti-aging ingredients or other potent actives can leave them with irreversible skin problems. 

Wanting to look or act older at a younger age is not uncommon, but with skin care routines trending, experts suggest that these young digital natives may be harming their skin with the ingredients made for mature skin. 

Dr. Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, told The Times: “Something I feel quite strongly about is discouraging the adoption of intricate anti-aging routines that involve actives like vitamin C, retinoids and other exfoliating acids.”

“Teenagers are sometimes overly concerned about premature aging. I recently saw a 14-year-old in my clinic who was concerned about crow’s feet. She had undoubtedly been influenced by social media and influencers.”

Beyond the potential risks of early exposure to harsh products, influencers have highlighted the growing trend of excessive sampling that has led to messy display units at Sephora outlets.

Young kids are interested in expensive skin care (Image credit: Drunk Elephant).Influencer generation
Gen Alpha, born between 2010 and 2024, was raised with social media as a leading source of socialization, with an emphasis on maintaining a digital footprint. While previous generations got their “trends” from their classmates, today’s tweens have a plethora of knowledge with access to the internet and are taking to TikTok and YouTube to watch and share skin care routines. 

The eight to 12-year-olds received their name “Sephora kids” after older generations called out their behavior at the popular beauty retailer. The tweens were seen demanding expensive skin care from their parents and buying up what was in stock.

The kids have also been criticized online in user videos posted on TikTok for their behavior in stores, leaving tester products dirty, being rude to other shoppers and workers and throwing tantrums when not having their requests satiated.

Age prevention before aging
Tweens are encompassed with the rhetoric of preventing aging on social media, as that is where current beauty trends are leaning. Ingredients such as retinol are popular and help aging skin, but they can cause redness, flaking and rashes on children’s faces.

Mahto tells the British Skin Foundation that she is witnessing teenagers showcasing their luxury skin care routines, often with many steps.

“As a consultant dermatologist, I feel it is essential to emphasize that a 13-year-old’s skin care routine should prioritize basic hygiene rather than unnecessary complexity,” she says.

Popular brands
Last year, Kim Kardashian’s nine-year-old daughter North West shared her skin care routine on TikTok, consisting of products from Drunk Elephant and Skkn by Kim.  

Drunk Elephant, a self-described “clean beauty” brand, is regarded as one of the most popular brands for these young skin care enthusiasts. Adorned in bright and colorful packaging with a cartoon Elephant logo, the brand is frequently featured in adult and child influencers’ online content.

Many of the brand’s bestsellers cost approximately US$60 each and contain exfoliators such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids and vitamin A derivative retinol.

Dr. McPherson, representing the British Association of Dermatologists, worries about the “suggestive packaging” attracting children. “These products are sold as empowerment, but [it] is playing on vulnerabilities,” she stresses.Tweens going into Sephora to buy skin care and makeup products are critiqued for ruining displays.

Drunk Elephant’s rise in use for tweens caused founder Tiffany Masterson to tell “kids and tweens stay away from our more potent products that include acids and retinols” on social media.

“Their skin does not need these ingredients quite yet,” she underscores.

However, in December of 2023, Drunk Elephant released a statement on Instagram saying, “Many of our products are designed for all skin, including kids and tweens.”

Young shoppers who have been flocking to the display sections of the colorful brand — known for its trending skin care “smoothie” pump packaging — have been dubbed “Drunk Elephant kids.”

Other viral brands on TikTok, including Sol De Janeiro and Glow Recipe, have developed a cult following among pre-teens.

Discussion of restrictions
Dr. Marnie Nussbaum, a dermatologist specializing in non-invasive aesthetic rejuvenation, told US morning TV show Today in January: “They want to emulate those videos that they’re seeing — the problem is, they’re being marketed products that are not right for their skin.”

“Cleanser, oil-free moisturizer, lip balm and SPF, that’s all they need.” 

According to CNBC, pharmacies such as CVS and Walgreens underwent renovations that put beauty products front and center, including cosmetics marketed to children with the branding of childhood books and TV shows. 

There are rules to ensure cosmetic claims do not mislead consumers. In the EU, brands must comply with a Code of Practice known as the CAP Code, which requires marketing and communications to be designed with a sense of responsibility to consumers and society. The CAP Code contains specific requirements for advertisements featuring or marketed to children.

There are currently no enforced age restrictions on buying skin care items with potentially harmful ingredients for young skin in shops or online.

By Sabine Waldeck