Seppic advances makeup inspired by skincare with hydrophilic formulations for foundations

27 Oct 2022 --- Addressing the rise of multifunctional makeup, Seppic has revealed that its polymers and emulsifiers are compatible with powder and dispersed liquid forms of hydrophilic pigments, often used in foundations. The company intends to inspire experts in creating light-weight foundations with no-transfer and well coverage.

“Makeup consumers expect certain prerequisites now. Some are basics from the makeup market, such as immediate and visible effectiveness or professional performance. But we are increasingly witnessing the influence of skincare in recent years, with expectations for new sensorial textures and care benefits inspired from skincare,” Lorraine Denois, cosmetic market and digital manager of Seppic, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Moreover, with the pandemic and wearing masks, consumers have become accustomed to lighter makeup products to let their skin breathe better and these water-based textures inspired by skincare answers this need.”

To create sensorial textures inspired by skincare – such as O/W (water-in-oil) foundation and cream gel – involving external water phases, formulators need hydrophilic coated pigments to optimize foundation coverage and achieve good makeup performance.

“We see more launches of water-based foundations to complete the offer of fluid foundations, mainly based on silicones today,” Denois continues.

Seppic has solutions ranging from comfortable to high natural foundations, from thick to fluid textures.Excipients for hybridity
Seppic tested its range of polymers and emulsifiers to find that Sepimax Zen (polyacrylate crosspolymer-6) was the best-performing polymer. At the same time, Solagum AX (acacia senegal gum and xanthan gum) was the best-performing natural polymer.

From polymers to emulsifiers, many of Seppic’s ingredients have good compatibility with tested hydrophilic pigments (powder form with different coating or liquid dispersion) in cream gel and emulsion, the company revealed.

“These new [water-based] foundations are lightweight and easy to apply. They also blend into the skin easily, without making it feel greasy or heavy. They can be rich in actives too, particularly the hydrophilic ones currently used in skincare,” Denois shares.

As consumers are increasingly looking for no-transfer and high coverage efficacy, Seppic has invested in the measurement of emulsion chassis to develop non-transfer formulas. Seppic’s Natural Tinted Foundation (formula EU07556), an O/W emulsion with 15% of hydrophilic pigments, is a natural balancing emulsion that provides high coverage without transfer to unify skin complexion.

“As a supplier of excipients for the formulation of this type of galenic, we conducted studies to evaluate the compatibility of a selection of Seppic’s ingredients with these new pigments to be able to advise formulators with the appropriate polymer or emulsifier couplings,” states Denois.

Suppliers now offer varying grades of hydrophilic pigments with different coatings. These treated pigments disperse quickly in water without adding filler dispersants or wetting agents. However, in gel-cream or emulsion formulations, they may react differently, according to Seppic.

“Our role as a cosmetic ingredients supplier is to help our customers decipher current trends and propose formulation concepts and ingredients that meet current and future market demands,” Denois concludes.

By Radhika Sikaria

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