Seppic launches vegan squalane polymer for clean beauty formulations

Seppic has launched Sepilife Neos, a patented liquid polymer based on natural-origin, which is traditionally sourced from shark liver oil. The vegan squalane expands the company’s Sepilife hybrid polymer range and is part of a larger industry move away from animal-derived ingredients.

The provider of cosmetic rheology modifiers underlines the struggles of balancing cosmetic efficacy with increasingly stringent clean beauty demands.

Squalane has emerged as a hero ingredient in the beauty industry. Seppic cites that 11% of skin care launches contain squalane, representing an average increase of 9% over the past six years. Sepilife Neos directly embeds squalane into liquid polymer technology.

Building on squalane’s skin biocompatibility, Seppic positions Sepilife Neos as a clean beauty-friendly solution that remains highly efficacious.

Clean beauty efficacy

The ingredient is non-microplastic and essential oil-free with a 65% natural origin content. According to the company, it offers good skin tolerance and provides a ready-to-use, energy-saving solution for cold process formulations.

A Univar Solutions spokesperson recently underscored cold process manufacturing as an effective approach to reducing a formulation’s environmental impact. The spokesperson told Personal Care Insights that selecting raw materials compatible with cold-process manufacturing can lower energy consumption by reducing or eliminating heating and cooling stages without compromising product performance.

Additionally, Sepilife Neos is said to offer a unique sensory experience due to the silky feel of its squalane phase. “Its melting texture delivers an immediate ‘quick-break’ effect upon application, releasing its aqueous phase for a burst of freshness and transforming into a soft, non-tacky finish without balling,” says the company.

The ingredient also offers robust rheology and stabilization by combining high-performance thickening and stabilization.

The ingredient holds up to 35% oil phase without requiring additional emulsifiers or neutralization. It is compatible across various formats, as it is aligned with sprayability and compatibility across acidic pH, solvents, preservatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, and polar to apolar oils.

Plant-based squalane offers a sustainable alternative to traditional animal-derived sources.

According to Seppic, the ingredient allows formulators to tailor viscosity to their needs and craft “infinite” textures, from lightweight sprays to rich emulsions.

“With Sepilife Neos, we are bringing a new dimension to our hybrid polymer portfolio. We empower formulators with a sensorial squalane-infused solution capable of raising the challenges of the clean beauty concept without compromising on premium textures,” says Anna Dessaint, product manager at Seppic.

Shark-sparing squalane

The beauty industry is adjusting to a consumer culture increasingly motivated by animal welfare and ecological concerns. As purchasing power and policymaking are progressively shaped by ethics and sustainability, cosmetic formulations are also experiencing a reform.

To future-proof their portfolios, ingredient manufacturers are developing plant-based substitutes of hero ingredients such as squalane. Alongside animal suffering, shark hunting can pose a threat to marine ecosystems due to their important role in aquatic habitats.

“Historically, squalene has been associated with shark-derived sources, which resulted in a number of grave environmental issues,” Bryan See, VP of biotechnology and ingredient company PhytoGaia, told us.

“Plant-derived squalene provides an opportunity to meet the same ingredient demand without relying on an animal source.”