Silab tackles iron imbalance in menopausal skin with anti-aging active

Silab has launched Metallomia, a topical active ingredient targeting the controlled release of iron in menopausal skin to combat premature aging. 

The detoxifying natural active is derived from marshmallow roots and tackles metallo-aging and enhances ultraviolet (UV) resilience in the skin, according to the company. 

The ingredient supports ferritinophagy, the iron regulation process that falls short in menopausal skin. Silab explains that during menopause, the quantity of iron in the body increases. However, a deficiency of ferritinophagy — the degradation process of the iron-storage protein, ferritin — creates scarcity in bioavailable iron. This contributes to the aging of the skin during menopause. 

To further its knowledge of the interactions between ferritin, ferritinophagy, and menopause, Silab developed a modeling study. The study revealed the deficiency of ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. 

“In a state of homeostasis, this form of autophagy ensures the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of the cell,” says Silab. 

UV radiation also negatively contributes to this phenomenon of metallo-aging by causing the degradation of ferritin and the release of stored iron. This leads to “the massive and uncontrolled release of iron and causing significant oxidative stress,” according to Silab. 

Metallomia is touted as encouraging the supply of iron and relaunching the main epidermal functions by restarting ferritinophagy. By mitigating the iron/ferritin complexes, the active ingredient also limits oxidative stress caused by UV exposure. 

The active is available in an aqueous solution and has a natural origin content of 100%. 

Detoxifying the skin 

Silab reports that the targeted mechanism of the active ingredient significantly reduces metallo-aging. Caucasian volunteers reported revitalized skin after 14 days. Their skin barriers were also said to be reinforced, and there were visible improvements to their complexion. 

Silab also notes that pigment spots were significantly reduced in Asian volunteers after 28 days. 

For UV mitigation, when Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before exposure, it was found to prevent lipid peroxidation. “Within hours after exposure to UV, the appearance of redness is limited,” says Silab. 

The company is leveraging marshmallow roots through a traced supply chain with French partners for the ingredient’s production. The roots were chosen as they are rich in mucilages, polysaccharide-rich substances produced naturally by most plants. 

The raw material has been validated by the European Pharmacopeia criteria and through DNA barcoding authentication. Silab also developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides to benefit from the mucilages of marshmallow roots.