Dermatologists form working group against skin bleaching beauty products

The International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS) has formed a working group of experts to fight against global skin bleaching. The group’s establishment aims to differentiate between the dangers of skin bleaching and advocate for dermatologically backed interventions for pigmentation disorders. The group says skin bleaching products are becoming more internationally popular, and users are becoming younger. 

The ILDS group frames skin bleaching as a major public health problem that affects millions of people. It cites a study that found in Nigeria (75%), Senegal (50%), and North India (60%), the majority of female study participants reported using skin-lightening products.

However, while skin bleaching has existed for many years as a so-called aspirational beauty practice, the working group warns that more teenagers, and in some areas, children and infants are being subjected to it. Men are also increasingly using skin bleaching products.

“Reports from several countries, particularly in parts of West Africa, suggest that skin-lightening products are increasingly being used in infants and young children. This is especially concerning because when these products are being used on children, we are no longer discussing cosmetics alone — we are discussing a significant public health issue,” professor Seemal Desai, member of the newly established ILDS working group, and past president of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), tells Personal Care Insights.

The working group says that poor regulation, paired with the continued demand for lighter skin, is what helps make the products widely available — despite their proven health risks. The practice is driven by social pressures that favor fairer skin, and is especially common in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, and the Middle East. It also notes that pigmentation disorders can be burdensome to people’s quality of life. 

Pigmentation disorders require safe, evidence-based dermatological care.The ILDS group hopes to influence public and governmental perceptions of skin bleaching. The group hopes to frame medical interventions targeting pigmentation disorders as a dermatological skin health right, and improve access to those services.

“Skin bleaching is not fundamentally about vanity — it is about history, culture, identity, and deeply rooted societal pressures,” says Desai.

Tricks in the terminology

Skin bleaching products temporarily or permanently lighten the skin tone by containing active chemicals that either slow, block, or disrupt the body’s natural process of making melanin pigment. Desai tells us that many contain mercury, potent corticosteroids, hydroquinone, or combinations of these ingredients.

Exposure to these ingredients has been linked to kidney damage, neurological and nervous system disorders, and psychosis, with distinct threats to women, particularly their reproductive wellness, and expectant mothers’ fetal growth. For this reason, they are heavily regulated in most global markets, but still manage to slip through the cracks into consumers’ hands.

Desai explains that a range of products can be used to bleach infants’ skin, including creams, soaps, and “baby toners.”

“Children have an immature skin barrier and a higher surface-area-to-body-weight ratio, leading to greater absorption of topical agents. This increases the risk of systemic toxicity, including neurologic injury, kidney damage, and endocrine complications,” he says.

Desai adds that dermatologists globally have expressed concerns about the growing use of skin bleaching products on young children and infants, but says that the trend has remained largely unreported. One reason for this, he notes, is that many parents are “absolutely” misled into believing the products are safe.

Babies face heightened risks from skin bleaching products because their developing skin can absorb harmful ingredients more readily.“Many parents may not perceive these products as ‘bleaching agents’ but rather as products intended to improve complexion or skin tone. Marketing terminology has evolved significantly. Terms such as ‘glow,’ ‘radiance,’ and ‘even complexion’ may obscure the underlying intent of skin lightening and make it more difficult for consumers to recognize potential risks,” Desai says. 

This obscured marketing terminology has also caused regulatory ripples. He explains: “The distinction between legitimate treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders and products intended to lighten otherwise healthy skin can become blurred, creating challenges for both consumers and regulators.”

For regulators, Desai says warning signs include claims such as “fairer skin,” “shade lighter in days,” or “full-body brightening.” 

“Many harmful products continue to circulate because of inconsistent regulation, poor ingredient labeling, online sales across borders, and informal distribution channels. This is a global issue that requires international collaboration among regulators, public health agencies, dermatologists, and industry.”

Health over aspiration

Desai tells us that the growing use of skin bleaching products among men suggests that colorism and complexion-related pressures are broadening beyond women and becoming increasingly normalized across society. He says the pressures are likely being driven by social media, grooming trends, and globalized beauty standards.

More men are using skin bleaching products as complexion pressures spread.“While many manufacturers have moved away from explicit terms such as ‘whitening,’ the underlying messaging can remain similar. The terminology has changed, but the aspirational message that lighter skin may confer beauty, confidence, or opportunity often persists,” Desai says.

He highlights that one of the movement’s most important messages should emphasize not judging individuals who use these products. “Many people are responding to longstanding societal pressures and beauty standards that did not originate with them. They deserve compassion, education, and safe care,” he says.

Desai explains that skin bleaching intersects with public health, culture, identity, psychology, and health equity, and that the working group aims to address all these aspects of the practice.

“Dermatologists fully recognize that conditions such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can significantly impact quality of life and deserve safe, evidence-based treatment. The focus should be on skin health, treatment of disease, and well-being — not on promoting lighter skin as inherently more desirable,” he explains.

The next steps for the working group include expanding educational initiatives, strengthening international collaborations, engaging policymakers and regulatory agencies, and supporting culturally relevant public awareness campaigns.

“We also hope to work closely with patient advocacy organizations and our member societies to improve access to evidence-based dermatologic care and to better understand the global burden of this issue,” Desai says. 

“We must also continue to advocate to regulatory bodies that medical use of lightening products for pigmentary disorders under the supervision of a dermatologist or trained medical professional is different and still remains very important to preserve and advance appropriate access.”