US FDA proposes ban of carcinogenic formaldehyde use in hair straightening products

18 Oct 2023 --- The US FDA has proposed a ban on certain harmful chemicals in hair smoothing or hair straightening products. The administration’s proposal would ban formaldehyde and other formaldehyde-releasing chemicals as an ingredient in these products across the nation. 

The new rule was put forward this month following a March letter from US Congresswoman Shontel Brown (Ohio) and Congresswoman Ayanna Pressley (Massachusetts) calling for an investigation by the agency into the health risks posed by chemical hair straighteners.

“On behalf of women across the country, especially Black women, I applaud the FDA’s new proposed rule banning formaldehyde and other harmful chemicals from hair straighteners,” remarks Brown. “We must ensure the products American consumers buy and use are safe, and I look forward to working with my colleagues and the administration to implement this proposed rule.”

In their letter, Pressley and Brown noted that due to anti-Black hair sentiment, Black women use these products at a higher rate to relax their hair, likely putting them at a higher risk of developing uterine cancer and other negative health outcomes.

“The FDA’s proposal to ban these harmful chemicals in hair straighteners and relaxers is a win for public health — especially the health of Black women who are disproportionately put at risk by these products as a result of systemic racism and anti-Black hair sentiment,” asserts Pressley.

“Regardless of how we wear our hair, we should be allowed to show up in the world without putting our health at risk. I applaud the FDA for being responsive to our calls and advancing a rule that will help prevent manufacturers from making a profit at the expense of our health. The administration should finalize this rule without delay.”Pressley and Brown flag that black women use hair relaxers at a higher rate, which likely puts them at a higher risk of developing uterine cancer.

Ending formaldehyde in hair products
The proposed rule would ban formaldehyde and other formaldehyde-releasing chemicals — such as methylene glycol — in hair smoothing or hair straightening products marketed in the US.

These chemicals are used in certain cosmetic products that are applied to the hair as part of a combination of chemical and heating tool treatments intended to smooth or straighten the hair.  

The use of hair smoothing products containing formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing chemicals is linked to short-term adverse health effects, such as sensitization reactions and breathing problems, and long-term adverse health effects, including an increased risk of certain cancers, according to certain research. 

Industry perspectives
Last year, the National Institutes of Health sparked an industry debate after claiming that women who use chemical hair straightening products have a higher chance of developing uterine cancer.

However, there have been instances where industry members have openly disputed the concern that these products pose a substantial risk to consumers.

The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association challenged the findings, asserting that “hair straightening products are safe and do not cause cancer.”

Similarly pushing back at the warning, the Personal Care Products Council — whose members account for roughly 90% of the beauty industry in the US — argued that “the fundamental principle of epidemiology is that association is not the same as causation, one does not necessarily lead to the other.”

By Benjamin Ferrer