Webinar preview: Seppic and Natrue provide sneak peek at what’s trending in cosmetics

06 May 2024 --- Ahead of tomorrow’s webinar, “What’s trending in cosmetics?” Personal Care Insights connects with its expert speakers from Seppic and Natrue, who preview the latest trends driving the booming beauty industry. With sustainability, biotechnological innovations and evolving consumer preferences in focus, the webinar promises to unveil the key strategies and innovation reshaping the cosmetics landscape.

Click here to register for free for the webinar, which begins at 16:00 CEST.

“Look forward to learning and attending a debate about trends in the cosmetic industry delving into crucial aspects of sustainability — including the role of natural ingredients, biotechnological innovations and consumer preferences for sustainable beauty products,” remarks Dr. Mark Smith, director general at the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association.

“We encourage participants to come prepared with questions and topics they would like to explore further during the interactive session.”

Sustainability and “skinification”
Marie Ollagnier, Corporate Social Responsibility director at Seppic, will share market trends currently driving growth and tell us how companies can capitalize on these trends to stay competitive.

Companies need to find solutions to combine efficacy with respect for people and the planet, says Ollagnier.“At In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France, in April, we saw that almost all the new products highlighted showed a high naturality profile and/or sustainability labels. Obviously, one of the key market trends driving growth is sustainability and companies need to find solutions to combine efficacy with respect for people and the planet.”

“Consumers expect strong commitments from beauty companies without compromising on performances,” she states.

Ollagnier also highlights key ingredient innovations that boost product performance and impact consumers. “The beauty sector is very dynamic, so there is a lot of product innovation, especially after In-cosmetics.”

“One is hair care products that care for the scalp, answering the ‘skinification’ trend. At Seppic, we believe this trend is meant to last since consumers are now convinced that for healthy and shiny hair, it’s also important to take care of the scalp.”

“That is why we launched Xylishine C during the trade show, an active ingredient that acts globally on the repair of the scalp and hair cuticles for more beautiful hair with increased shine, better curl definition and volume control,” adds Ollagnier.

“White, blue and green” biotech
Meanwhile, Smith of Natrue will explore how he sees sustainability and biotech innovations shaping the future. He advises that as the market increasingly demands natural cosmetics, biotechnologically produced cosmetic ingredients — or building blocks for new ingredients — can provide an ever-evolving option to offer solutions to address market and consumer needs. 

“Industrial innovations’ application of white, blue and green biotechnology has already shaped the cosmetics industry in providing access to new raw materials and renewable alternatives to petrochemical-based substances,” he says. 

“Given that biotechnology involves the adapted use of living systems to develop or make products more efficiently, its use forms an integral and positive contribution toward improving a product’s sustainability profile.” 

“For instance, reliance exclusively upon the agricultural sourcing of high-demand, natural cosmetic ingredients can apply sustainability pressures when, for instance, competing with food for consumption. It can also negatively impact biodiversity to jeopardize endangered species or even put others under threat of extinction,” he stresses.

Smith adds that an equally important component of economic sustainability is price. Biotechnology can produce raw materials with less cost fluctuation by guaranteeing a steady supply of inputs, such as feed- and food-based raw materials like sucrose that can be used in fermentation. 

“Lastly, optimized use of waste streams or byproducts to upcycle secondary biomass might also help to overcome agricultural production issues arising from seasonal variation or climate change,” adds Smith.

Consumer drivers
Smith shares insights into current consumer preferences regarding natural and eco-friendly beauty products.

Dr. Mark Smith, director general at Natrue.“Current consumer preferences in the cosmetics industry greatly favor natural and eco-friendly beauty products. Today’s consumers are more informed and aware of the ingredients they put on their skin and the need for ethically sourced, socially sustainable products with a low environmental footprint when it comes to their purchases,” he comments.

“They seek transparency, authenticity and sustainability from the brands they support, but they are also aware of the price since several crises in a row and the consequent inflation are affecting all pockets.”

Risk of greenwashing
According to Smith, businesses can take advantage of these trends to grow their businesses by adopting a comprehensive strategy that includes investing in recyclable or reusable packaging, prioritizing ingredient transparency and using sustainable sourcing and manufacturing techniques.

“However, it remains important to note that with the growing interest in natural and sustainable cosmetics, there remains the risk of greenwashing. For instance, vague or unsubstantiated claims identify a product as natural when, in reality, only part of the product may contain natural substances.”

“This situation is possible due to the lack of an official definition of what is meant by ‘natural’ and ‘sustainable’ cosmetics. Under the current regulatory framework, the best way to support claims and reassure consumers is to opt for using standards linked to third-party certification schemes, such as Natrue, where specific product characteristics are independently verifiable.”

Key sustainability challenges
Smith identifies that when cosmetics companies adopt sustainable practices, they face several difficulties. 

“These difficulties include finding high-quality natural ingredients, maintaining positive relationships with suppliers and supply chain transparency, being able to innovate and finding enough raw materials,” he underscores. 

He adds that these challenges must be “balanced with the triple bottom line,” connected to sustainability’s economic, environmental and social pillars. 

“To this end, a key component of cosmetics is the ability to innovate. This advancement requires a cost-effective balance between ingredient purity, performance and price. Accordingly, with naturals, there is a fundamental need for scalability to supply agricultural-based raw materials for products to match increasing consumer demand,” he notes.

“In addition, the current regulatory framework exposes the risk of greenwashing to the consumer, which can dilute consumer trust and increase skepticism regarding ‘green’ claims.” 

“Verifiable, traceable characteristics throughout the chain of custody are essential for implementing best practices. To overcome these challenges, companies can invest in third-party certification of qualifiable elements, international standardized norms, optimized manufacturing processes to minimize waste and engage in continuous R&D to boost innovation.”

Measuring the effects of adopted best practices on the organization and a product’s footprint will also be necessary for sustainability, Smith affirms.

“Consequently, standardized science-based methods to monitor impact and affect meaningful change also form part of the package. Finally, collaboration within the industry and with stakeholders can also drive collective action toward a more sustainable future, which has always been a key point for Nature when establishing partnerships.”

By Venya Patel