In-cosmetics Global live: Biotech innovations, reverse aging, skin protection and clean production

18 Apr 2024 --- At this year’s In-cosmetics Global trade show in Paris, France, companies are showcasing their innovative responses to consumer demands for sustainable and natural alternatives to petrochemical and plastic-based ingredients.

Emphasizing biotechnology and transparent supply chains, suppliers revealed solutions that promote healthier skin under the skin protection category while ensuring a natural, healthy glow. Additionally, “skinification” trends in hair care reflect ongoing industry developments.

Personal Care Insights interviewed companies at the event and will release videos soon. Marion Lorenzi, business unit director of Personal Care at Grolman told us the cosmetics industry is “very concerned about sustainability because our end consumer is very concerned about that. So even if we do not want to, we have no choice [but to go in this direction].”

Reverse-aging ingredients win
At the In-cosmetics Global Awards, dsm-firmenich won gold for its Eterwell Youth ingredient, which targets “dermo-destructive senescent cells for holistic skin health.” The product is clinically proven to reverse skin aging by up to six years in two weeks and nine years in three months. 

According to dsm-firmenich the extract is sustainable, organic, traceable, has a low environmental impact and is Fairtrade certified. Other innovations by the supplier showcased include Eterwell Youth, Sunsense3, Evolusun and Ulocks Syn-Up for hair, skin and sun care. 

A runner-up in the Best Active Ingredient Award was RejuveNAD by Mibelle Biochemistry, a solution for stabilizing NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide). This molecule plays a key role in various cellular processes. RejuveNAD is said to raise levels of NAD+ to enhance the longevity of skin cells.

Meanwhile, in third place is Regetaste by Codif TN, which the company says can “reverse epidermal senescence” and “activate cell regeneration, reinforcing the skin’s barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smooth, soft, fresh and radiant.” 

Eco-friendly cleaning solutions
dsm-firmenich won gold for its Eterwell Youth ingredient, which targets “dermo-destructive senescent cells for holistic skin health.”Evonik’s Ecohance Remo XP won the Best Functional Ingredient Award. The chemicals company claims it is a mild, adaptable ingredient that works well in personal hygiene products as a hydrophilic emollient, rheology modifier and sensory enhancer. In the supply chain, ethical and responsible sourcing are prioritized. An alternative feedstock and post-industrial side streams are used to produce the ingredient in a low-energy enzymatic process. 

Galseer DermaGreen by Galaxy Surfactants came in second place under the same category. The supplier touts it as the world’s first 100% green oil-soluble cleanser system, which is hypoallergenic and based on L-Proline technology. It uses “green” processes and is entirely bio-sourced, biodegradable and blended (25 – 50%) with vegetable oils and other oil-soluble actives.

Meanwhile, Carbopol Fusion S-20 polymer, a “more natural, inherently biodegradable, rheology modifier for cleansing systems” by Lubrizol Life Science, won bronze. According to the company, the ingredient can suspend, stabilize, thicken and enhance the appearance of cleaning products.

Natural-sourced ingredients in spotlight
In the Green Ingredient Awards, SpruceSugar by Boreal Bioproducts won gold. The innovation is a polysaccharide compound, which is a “natural, non-food origin of oligo- and polymeric specialty sugars in powder or liquid concentrate.” The compound functions as a biodegradable, water-soluble grease barrier, film-former, anionic surfactant and low-viscosity modifier, according to the Finnish company. 

Ashland’s Perfectyl won silver. Personal Care Insights spoke to Joel Mantelin, senior business director of marketing for personal care and Jim Minicucci, SVP of Ashland, about their innovations at the show. Mantelin shares that Perfectyl is a “high-tech chamomile extract” inspired by “new aesthetic techniques” to clarify and smooth skin’s flaws (large pores and hyperpigmentation) for all ethnicities.

In third place came LignoGuard Aqua 20 by Lignovations, which is an “eco-friendly multifunctional from upcycled lignin” and is an “SPF booster (up to 50% in-vivo SPF boost), antioxidant and stabilizer.”

Science award winners
Under the Kenvue Trusted Science Award, BASF won with its Hydrasensyl Glucan Green, which “merges the beneficial properties of hyaluronic acid and collagen.” Due to its 3D structure, BASF says it makes the ingredient “insensitive toward harsh formulation conditions” while adding smoothing, hydrating and soothing redness benefits. 

Evonik’s Ecohance Remo XP won the Best Functional Ingredient Award.The chemicals company showed us its new digital service, “Ingredients Revealed,” enabling identification of ingredients with specific criteria like sustainability information and labels. 

Evonik’s Tego Filmstar One MB —  a “fully bioderived and biodegradable film former,” — won silver. The product provides water resistance with a “similar” performance to fossil and non-biodegradable formers.

Immunight by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics received bronze for its green-processed oil-soluble lavandin extract, designed to reduce the effects of poor-quality sleep on the skin by boosting nighttime skin recovery and improving sleep quality through inhalation of olfactory compounds.

Innovations in cleaner alternatives
Cargill Beauty showcased BotaniDesign and Actigum Care, which are presented as alternatives to fossil-based ingredients.

We spoke to Tiffany Quinn, application development and clinical services manager, who said BotaniDesign “is a replacement for petrolatum. It is a one-for-one replacement for grapeseed oil and castor oil. It is palm-free, non-GMO and made in a one-pot reaction, so there is very limited waste when creating the product.” Meanwhile, Actigum Care is a “nature-derived alternative to synthetic polymers on the market. You are able to utilize this ingredient to create cream gel materials.”

Also, on the show floor, we spoke to Eric Leroy, global marketing director of Beauty Care at Syensqo, about its silicone replacement and sulfate-free formulations. We looked at its new Naternal Care Clear SGI, marketed as the first readily biodegradable, non-ecotoxic and ethically sourced conditioning polymer, and Mirataine CBS UP, a fully circular sultaine derived from fatty acids.

We met with Jungbunzlauer representatives, who discussed skin-protecting solutions. Jungbunzlauer showcased xanthan gum, citrofol citrate esters for UV protection, lactic acid, zinc lactate and glucono-delta-lactone for formulations. The team emphasized the importance of plastic-free and clean label products, aligning with eco-friendly certifications.

Boreal Bioproducts’ SpruceSugar, a natural and biodegradable film-former, a won gold in In the Green Ingredient Awards.Nouryon unveiled a biodegradable Structure M3 co-surfactant, which reduces surfactant system irritation and enhances mildness in shampoo, facial cleanser and body wash formulations. It has a “high natural content,” cold-water processability and compatibility with multiple surfactant systems.

Nature and biotech-based innovations
Meanwhile, we spoke with Dow, who showcased its dermocosmetics and hair care collection with shine-delivering formulations, believed to be sustainable, alongside makeup products of 90% natural origin content. The company also provided a preview of four Dowsil “carbon-neutral silicone elastomer blends.”

Biosyntia presented Eraglow, dubbed “natural biotin-enriched serums.” On the show floor, we spoke to its sales director, Joe Power, who said Eraglow is based on liposomal technology, has notable antioxidant properties and reduces UV-induced melanin production by 82%.

Lallemand presented prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics for the skin microbiome. Highlighted ingredients included Lallbiome 200 for healthy aging, marine microorganism-derived exopolysaccharides for biofilm prevention, and the Beauty Yeast Mask developed with TechNature for youthful skin. Thanks to the acquisition of Evolva, Lallemand expanded its capabilities, introducing Juneo for anti-aging and Larally L-Arabinose for skin microbiome balance.

Wacker demonstrated silicone formulas for hair care products that use less water. The company highlighted BELSIL EG 3000, a silicone elastomer gel, along with other related products that aim to increase the sustainability of hair care. Wacker also showcased a leave-in hair care product formulation that focuses on using less water and energy than conventional rinse-out conditioners. Along with new gum blends for hair care, organic solvent-based silicone elastomer gels as sustainable alternatives were also highlighted. 

Seppic presented ingredients like Xylishine C and Solagum GM, alongside the “Beautiful Temptations” collection. Maud Merlini, global marketing market and digital manager at Seppic, spoke to us about Xylishine C, describing it as “innovative on different points. The product is an  active ingredient with 99.7% natural origin content, and a patented complex of sugar derivative associated with bio-inspired seaweed.”

Givaudan Active Beauty launched Silk-iCare, a vegan silk protein for “protecting and repairing” the skin. Based on white biotechnology, Silk-iCare is an advancement in biomimetic silk protein technology with skin benefits. We spoke to Mathias Fleury, head of the category for Active Ingredients, at the show, who said the company is exploring ways to “offer alternatives for the beauty industry to be able to switch from petrochemical references with a dirty footprint and come up with biotech solutions.”

The active ingredient provider also unveiled Neuroglow to safely replicate the positive effects of the sun and attain the sought-after glow. Additionally, its new Illuminyl 388, a highly potent skin-brightening prebiotic, was revealed. The biotech-enhanced molecule was designed through “cell-free glycosylation” to benefit diverse skin types.

Roquette Beauté introduced ST 730 INCI Hydroxypropyl Starch. The pea crop has “minimal impact” on water resources, climate change and land use, according to the manufacturer, who says it utilizes almost 100% of the components of the yellow pea grain. 

By Venya Patel, reporting live from In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France