In-cosmetics Global: Roquette Beauté creates pea starch ingredient for skin care and makeup

10 Apr 2024 --- Roquette Beauté introduces its latest ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 INCI Hydroxypropyl Starch, for the cosmetics industry and will demonstrate its potential at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France, next week. 

The ingredient caters to the rising consumer demand for plant-based skin care and makeup products. The pea crop has “minimal impact” on water resources, climate change and land use, according to the manufacturer, who says it utilizes almost 100% of the components of the yellow pea grain. 

“Our new Beauté by Roquette ST 730 ingredient is unique on the market as this is the only one in its kind today, coming from pea starch origin, a very sustainable raw material that generates zero waste,” Bénédicte Courel, general manager at Roquette Beauté, tells Personal Care Insights.

“In terms of efficacy, Beauté by Roquette ST 730’s water resistance outperforms synthetic film formers and natural-based options like pullulan, which are industry benchmarks. Additionally, clinical tests have proven the tightening effect of our ingredient, which is not the case for other options available on the market.”

Anti-aging sustainably
The ingredient generates higher water resistance than synthetic film formers — long-lasting and water resistance are critical benefits in makeup applications. According to Roquette, over 50% of makeup consumers worldwide say they will prioritize a product with long-lasting claims.

In various studies, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 5% showed higher water resistance compared to industry benchmark film formers, such as pullulan and polyvinylpyrrolidone, at the same concentration. This reveals clinically proven benefits of reducing wrinkles.

Roquette will highlight a new cosmetic ingredient at the upcoming In-cosmetics trade show.“The demand for plant-based ingredients in cosmetics is expected to continue to rise due to various factors, including quality perception, environmental concerns and suitability for sensitive skin. Major brands are adapting to this trend and seeking innovative solutions to replace synthetic ingredients,” says Courel.

An in vivo study was performed on 40 volunteers to analyze the tightening power of the new ingredient. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 4% significantly decreases fine lines and wrinkles. 

“There is a significant reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in only three minutes. Eighty-two percent of the study participants reported fine-line reduction as satisfying. Seventy-two percent perceived the tightening/firming effect in three minutes and witnessed the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles around their eye contour,” continues Courel.

In-cosmetics predictions
Courel tells us that many companies will demonstrate sustainable innovations, explore AI and get back to the basics at the In-cosmetics trade show this year.

“There is also a growing trend in the industry toward what we call ‘going back to the essentials,’ i.e., emphasizing the quality of ingredients with proven efficacy. Lastly, the intersection of beauty and AI will undoubtedly be a hot topic as cosmetics players seek to understand how AI will influence the beauty industry.”

By Sabine Waldeck