Active ingredients: AI-identified peptides offer anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits

18 Apr 2023 --- In cosmetics, active skincare ingredients remain essential. They are intended to target a specific issue and fulfill a particular role, such as hydration, sun protection and skin redness, among others.

PersonalCareInsights is rounding up innovations in peptides from BASF, Cosrx and Crown Laboratories that unlock specific biological mechanisms in the skin, making it an effective active ingredient in cosmetics. We also hear from Amandine Werle, marketing specialist at Clariant Actives & Natural Origins, about the company’s natural origin solution for anti-aging molecules and the challenges associated with sustainably sourcing active ingredients.

According to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), active ingredients are “any component that provides a pharmacological activity or other direct effects in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment or prevention of disease, or to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or animals.”

Interestingly, chemical supplier BASF was one of the first ones to provide active ingredients for cosmetics in the 1950s. These were initially protein-based and sourced from animals.

“BASF has since followed an approach based on renewable vegetable resources but has also complemented its portfolio with a range of synthetic peptides. With the help of artificial intelligence (AI), BASF identified four defined peptides that have a specific action in the skin,” the company shares.

New product launches focus on mentioning active ingredients on the product label, shares Innova Market Insights.Protection against “silent inflammation”
BASF details that its PeptAIde 4.0 active ingredient contains four specific peptides, identified by AI for their ability to protect individuals from silent inflammation. The peptide works via controlled enzymatic hydrolysis and is sourced from organic rice proteins.

“Acute inflammation helps the body to heal and fight off infection. On the other hand, however, silent inflammation fights against healthy cells causes disease and accelerates the body’s degeneration,” BASF shares.

“The effects of this long process are almost invisible in young people – but it gradually creates deep damage to the skin and hair. PeptAIde 4.0 is clinically proven to counteract the effects of silent inflammation.”

The company elaborates that its active ingredient is scientifically proven to prevent dry skin, discomfort and loss of firmness while soothing sensitive scalps prone to dandruff.

Skin health in focus
Global market researcher Innova Market Insights reports that consumers are seeking to improve their skin’s health. “Most often, this benefit is provided by active ingredients that help promote skin hydration, provide anti-aging effects and shield against environmental stressors,” the researcher states.

Cosrx’s Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream employs 73.6% snail secretion filtrate (mucin) and five peptide complexes.

Clariant’s Werle details that the current market trend for beauty products is to have more and more ingredients that are from natural origin, and whose sourcing is done with respect of the environment. “Retinol being known as a very efficient anti-aging molecule that can also cause skin irritations when overdosed, ingredients manufacturers recently worked on solutions against this issue. Looking for natural alternatives to retinol or the development of new encapsulations systems in order to control the release of the retinol molecules are some ways allow the creation of strong anti-aging formulations that would not cause irritations,” she tells us. 

Moreover, Korean skincare brand Cosrx’s Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream is described as a “double-functioning eye cream that visibly brightens the eye area.” 

With 73.6% snail secretion filtrate (mucin) and five peptide complexes, the nourishing eye cream reduces fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles around the eyes by strengthening, firming and improving the skin’s elasticity.

Cosrx details five different types of peptides – Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 – that support natural skin renewal, minimize visible redness, plump skin, smooth fine lines and brighten skin tone.

“Cosrx believes that cosmetics should give more than just outward beauty. We are devoted to enabling individuals to find solutions according to their skin conditions. Cosrx researchers experiment and study ingredients and prescriptions directly in the Cosrx laboratory,” according to the company.

Recognition for smartness
Crown Laboratories recently announced its StriVectin Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum received the “Best Peptide Serum” NewBeauty award, which honors the most innovative products and treatments in the industry.

“Our new serum visibly plumps and smooths skin so wrinkles appear filled in. The formula is powered by proprietary Alpha-3 Peptide – a breakthrough peptide that is so smart it has the power to target three of the skin’s natural building blocks: Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic Acid,” the global skincare company shares.

BASF’s PeptAIde 4.0 active ingredient contains four specific peptides, identified by AI.The ingredient helps maintain the look of volume and resiliency for smooth, luminous, youthful-looking skin.

“As these building blocks decrease over time, skin loses its volume, shape and resilience, making it more prone to wrinkles. Alpha-3 Peptide was designed utilizing AI technology to efficiently target these three essential building blocks in the skin for intense line-smoothing power.”

Crown Laboratories’ global marketing director Rachel Pollak adds, “StriVectin is a leader in skincare science, pioneering the usage of peptides 20 years ago.”

“Today, we continue to develop the highest quality, results-driven, clinically-validated skincare solutions. Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum is one of our newest products, so for it to receive this recognition so quickly is incredibly exciting.”

Sourcing hurdles
Regarding the challenges associated with sourcing active ingredients, Werle tells us that sustainable sourcing has two components: “the environmental one and the ethical one, to ensure the sourcing of the ingredients does not negatively impact the environment, local communities, or the long-term availability of the ingredient.”

“It is possible to have a sustainable sourcing, by working closely with communities and ensuring the harvest of natural raw material is done with respect of the environment and the plants biome. But this requires very strong control over the supply chain to ensure all the steps respect the requirements of a sustainable sourcing and that there is full traceability of the ingredient.”

She further highlights that sourcing sustainable and ethically produced active ingredients can be a challenge as it requires careful selection of suppliers and production methods. “In addition, this sourcing must be done in accordance with local legislations, that can add additional constraints on the sourcing.”

Peptide in news
Recently, scientists at skincare brand No7 and the University of Manchester, UK, developed a matrix-derived “super peptide” blend. The university shares that this technology is “the biggest cosmetic science innovation in No7’s history” and contains two new chemicals, a patent-pending “world-first” technology.

In other developments, Chemyunion recently unveiled Peptid4 S-Contol, a synthetic tripeptide to control oiliness and reduce visible pores by blocking the melanocortin 5 receptor (MC5R). 

“Excessive sebum production can cause great discomfort to the people affected, which leads to signs such as intense shine, dilated pores and contributing to the development of acne,” the company detailed.

By Radhika Sikaria