No7 and University of Manchester bio-hack skin repair with “world-first super peptide”

17 Apr 2023 --- Scientists at skincare brand No7 and the University of Manchester, UK, have developed a matrix-derived “super peptide” blend. The university shares that this technology is “the biggest cosmetic science innovation in No7’s history” and contains two new chemicals, a patent-pending “world-first” technology.

The peptide blend of two novel synthetic tetra-peptides – pal-GPKG and pal-LSVD – mimics naturally occurring peptides in the skin. It targets signs of damage on and under the skin’s surface and boosts its natural self-repair mechanisms.

The researchers revealed the peptide blend is proven to enhance the expression of over 50 essential skin proteins, including collagen and fibrillin, which support skin function and natural self-repair.  

“Underpinning this discovery is No7’s long-standing research partnership with brilliant scientists at The University of Manchester. Together we utilized new state-of-the-art methodologies and techniques such as machine learning and bioinformatics to identify and screen naturally-occurring skin efficacious peptides – a first for the cosmetics industry,” says Dr. Mike Bell, No7’s head of science research.

The developers utilized machine learning to identify naturally-occurring peptide sequences released from key skin molecules.“Most potent peptide”
According to the university, No7’s “super peptide” is “set to be one of the most effective and tolerated skincare ingredients on the cosmetic market.”

“Today, the field of peptide technology research is booming, with exciting discoveries and applications being used in therapeutic medical settings as well as in cosmetic science,” comments Mike Sherratt, professor of biochemistry at the University of Manchester.

The developers utilized machine learning to identify naturally-occurring peptide sequences released from key skin molecules, including collagens and elastic-fiber proteins. It was then tested using state-of-the-art omics techniques to characterize skin remodeling activity and find the most potent peptide for deep skin repair.

“This novel and revolutionary peptide innovation could only have been developed from having a deep understanding of skin damage,” says Sherratt.

The university details that robotic technology from the University of Liverpool’s Materials Innovation Factory and mathematical modeling techniques were used to optimize the formulation textures and delivery system for peptide penetration. “As a result, penetration is predicted to be 50% better than existing formulations,” it shares.

Dr. Matiss Ozols, a former researcher at the University of Manchester and now based at the Wellcome Sanger Institute, flags: “Application of this peptide discovery pipeline to other tissues could profoundly advance the treatment of age-related diseases, providing novel treatments inspired by the body’s natural self-repair mechanisms. I’m excited by the possibilities.”

No7 peptide technology
The skincare brand explains that peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin, which form the foundations of the skin and are directly responsible for its texture, strength and resilience.The peptide blend of two novel synthetic tetra-peptides mimic naturally occurring peptides in the skin.

The latest “super peptide” expands No7’s existing portfolio and is touted as a “game changer” by Bell.

Additionally, the university explains that, unlike retinoic acid, which dermatologists know to cause tolerance challenges such as skin sensitivity and redness, No7’s new super peptide is “highly potent and also highly tolerated,” being suitable even for those with sensitive skin.

“This paves the way to making gold standard skin repair available to even more people,” it concludes.

New peptides on the market
In related developments, BASF Personal Care recently debuted Kerasylium, a new hair care micro-complex, nutrient-packed and peptide-rich ingredient to help repair damaged hair and to protect it from daily aggressions.

Kerasylium is the result of upcycling milk thistle seed cake, a byproduct of milk thistle oil production.

Chemyunion released Peptid4 S-Control, a synthetic tripeptide to control oiliness and reduce visible pores.

Early this year, DSM’s skincare peptide Syn-Up was approved as a New Cosmetic Ingredient in China under the country’s new cosmetic legislation and can now be used freely in skincare formulations in the market. 

Edited by Radhika Sikaria