Microbial marvels: Illuminating cosmetic colors from bacteria, yeast and plants

09 Jan 2024 --- The fusion of biotechnology and beauty marks a new era in the vibrant field of cosmetic colors. As the industry embraces natural pigments derived from bacteria, yeast, fungi and algae, it shapes the future by opening up sustainable opportunities. Personal Care Insights looks at the latest market and scientific research, focusing on carotenoids, anthocyanins and cyanobacteria-derived phycobiliproteins (PBPs).

Innova Market Insights data suggests that cosmetic colorants are rising globally, growing at 7% yearly between July 2021 and June 2023. Face/Body Cosmetics took the lead at 39% in launches featuring these colorants from July 2022 to June 2023. Meanwhile, titanium dioxide was the star ingredient (92%).

Following titanium dioxide, iron oxide red (85%), iron oxide black (78%), iron oxide yellow (75%) and litho Rubin BK (38%) were the top ingredients in skin care launches tracked with cosmetic colorants.

According to the market researcher, the top category of cosmetic colorants is Face/Body Cosmetics, with the top subcategories being Lipsticks, Face Foundation/Illuminators and Face Concealers. It finds Kiko Cosmetics to be the leading company in this field.

Furthermore, the top positionings in cosmetic colorants were Long-Lasting (67%), Moisturizing & Hydrating (46%), Ethical – Animal/Fish & Bird (38%), No Animal Ingredients (35%) and Vegan (35%).

Natural microbial pigments
Microbial pigments sourced from bacteria and fungi offer an affordable, renewable and eco-friendly palette for cosmetics, according to research in the journal Nutrients.

Dietzia maris and Sporidiobolus pararoseus emerge as contenders for industrial-scale carotenoid production.In cosmetics, Streptomyces bellus is the source of natural melanin, which is used as a component in sunscreens, bio-lips and other beauty care products. Astaxanthin from Haematococcus pluvialis defies aging, reducing melanin by 40%. Also, red pigment prodigion in sunscreens enhances UV protection and anti-inflammatory benefits.

The research highlights that the carotenoid family, which includes canthaxanthin, lycopene, β-carotene, and astaxanthin, is well-known for its potent antioxidants in cosmetics. Because of its non-invasive properties, violacein is found in lipsticks, eye makeup and antiperspirants.

“Several bacteria, including Chromobacterium violaceum, Duganella sp., Pseudoalteromonas luteoviolacea sp. and Massilia sp., produce violacein,” detail the authors.

Beyond algae: Bacteria and yeast carotenoids
Carotenoids are lipid-soluble pigments that also play diverse roles, from photoprotection in plants to antioxidants and colorants.

Recently, color expert Sun Chemical introduced two natural colors, expanding its SunPuro Naturals product line for cosmetics and personal care.

SunPuro Natural Carotene O N70-2317 is derived from the Dunaliella salina algae. The “farmed beta carotene” imparts hues ranging from yellow to orange while boasting antioxidant properties in color cosmetics and skin care products.

The second product, SunPuro Natural Carotene BTO N70-2527, brings a more orange to red color. It is made via biofermentation of beta-carotene, which enables greater yield and reduces the product’s environmental impact, says Sun Chemicals.

Moreover, recent research has explored pigments such as astaxanthin, β-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, canthaxanthin and lycopene.

The paper highlights that while synthetic carotenoids dominate the global market, natural sources like microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis, Dunaliella salina and the yeast Phaffia rhodozyma are gaining traction. This shift toward natural alternatives prompts a review of strategies to enhance fungal and bacterial carotenoid production.

Microbial carotenoids, especially from bacteria like Dietzia maris and yeast Sporidiobolus pararoseus, present advantages such as smaller cultivation areas and independence from hindering geographical factors. While microalgae are prevalent, bacteria and yeast show promise for industrial-scale production, suggest the authors.

They present strategies for enhancing microbial carotenoid production, which include tricarboxylic cycle acid intermediate addition, stress exposure and fermentation condition optimization. According to the research, the future involves a two-stage fermentation strategy, positioning bacteria and yeast as alternatives to microalgae.

A colorful revolution
Other research in journal Plants proclaims anthocyanins, pigments in plants, are transforming the cosmetic industry.  Natural carotenoids from microorganisms like Haematococcus pluvialis offer alternatives to synthetic counterparts. 

With hues ranging from red to blue, these natural colorants offer more than visual appeal — they bring antioxidant, anti-obesity and neuroprotective benefits. Beyond fruits and flowers, they hold promise for natural colorants in cosmetics, offering antioxidant and anti-aging properties, suggest the authors.

“Researchers are focusing on plant cell and organ cultures as a viable alternative due to the limited availability and variability of anthocyanins’ quality and quantity from natural resources, like fruits and vegetables,” they detail.

The study found plant cell cultures hold the key to enhanced anthocyanin production. Metabolic engineering is crafting plants with heightened anthocyanin levels. By cloning key genes and utilizing CRISPR/Cas systems, researchers are creating stable, high-performing plants tailored for cosmetic needs.

Further advancements in bioreactors are scaling up anthocyanin production.

“Despite five or six decades of study on plant cell and organ cultures, commercial production of anthocyanin has not proven successful. However, anthocyanins may now be obtained in greater amounts because of advancements in metabolic engineering and the cloning of regulator and pathway genes in model plants like Arabidopsis and tobacco,” write the authors.

Innovations like pulsed electric field extraction and supercritical CO2 extraction are creating safer, more effective methods, ensuring high-quality pigments for cosmetics.Cyanobacteria-derived PBPs’ vibrant color, non-toxic profile, and antioxidant properties open opportunities (Image credit: World Journal of Biological Chemistry).

Cyanobacteria: Oxygenic photosynthesis
As a result of cyanobacteria’s ability to adapt to environmental stresses, scientists are delving into PBPs, the vividly colored pigment proteins.

PBPs contribute to efficient photosynthesis while unlocking several benefits. From hepatoprotective (preventing liver damage) to anti-aging properties, PBPs emerge in food, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and biomedical research.

PBPs’ vibrant color, non-toxic profile, and antioxidant properties open up new opportunities in various industries. 

The research, published in the World Journal of Biological Chemistry, highlights that scientists are stepping up efforts to improve PBP production and purification. Here, Spirulina platensis is used for PBP production. This is because it grows in open ponds and enclosed photobioreactors while overcoming challenges such as ensuring equal light provision, CO2 distribution and temperature control.

In cosmetics, PBPs are used in lipsticks, sun-protecting creams and eye shadow palettes. They also have skin care benefits, such as free radical scavenging capacity. 

In our previous Special Report on cosmetic colors, we spoke to BioPowder on multifunctional uses of upcycled natural powders while sharing research on flower dye, carotenoids from fruit fly bacteria and Peruvian lichen.

By Venya Patel