Cosmetic colors: Spotlighting natural pigments from upcycled fruits, flower, fruit flies and lichen

14 Aug 2023 --- This Special Report expounds on the uses and benefits of natural pigments in the cosmetics industry. Personal Care Insights speaks to Spain-based BioPowder on multifunctional uses of upcycled natural powders while sharing recent research on flower dye, carotenoids from fruit fly bacteria and Peruvian lichen.

“Our powders are made from by-products of the fruit processing industry. Manufacturing is a circular process that transforms leftovers into versatile, functional ingredients,” shares Kathrin Schilling, managing director of BioPowder.

“Bio-based pigments are generally an upgrade to conventional, synthetic and potentially polluting or harmful ingredients. There are multiple reasons in favor of bio-based solutions, above all the global consensus to replace polymeric particles in cosmetics (microplastics).”

Schilling shares that BioPowder particles can be used in exfoliants, as rheology modifiers, pigments and pigment carriers and as a source of antioxidants while bringing mattifying properties to products. 

“BioPowder particles can be tailored to support different textures and reduce the need for synthetic additives. Performance is high, especially because of [the powders’] multifunctionality and stability,” she continues.

“Our argan shell and olive stone powders stand out as primary ingredients in makeup formulations. They can be used on a powdery or creamy basis in concentrations up to 70% and create a smooth and appealing texture. Due to their limited solubility in oil and water, they are also well-suited for waterproof makeup products and even liquid mascara.”

Biopigment challenges and quality monitoring
Schilling highlights that a challenge to formulating with natural pigments compared to synthetic ones is a difference in stability.Kathrin Schilling, managing director of BioPowder.

“However, there are ways to ensure very similar [performance] levels. Also, plant-based color particles naturally come with a certain microbial load. A major part of bacteria and other germs can be eliminated through heat treatment or sterilization, where required,” explains Schilling.

“Our modern mills apply temperatures up to 100°C, dramatically reducing the microbial count. The safest option to guarantee the absence of microbes (even beneficial ones) is irradiation that we can offer on demand for all our products.”

BioPowder ensures the quality of pigments by carefully selecting raw materials and monitoring humidity and microbial load. 

“We source our fruit stones and shells from a network of hand-picked fruit processors (such as olive oil mills) to ensure the raw material is fresh, processed without chemicals and free of impurities,” shares Schilling.

“Subsequently, all raw materials undergo thorough in-house screening, involving densimetric separation and drying. In the production of our micro-powders, we consistently sample to ensure homogeneous particle ranges and minimum tolerances on the upper and lower edge of the specified micron range.”

Flower dyes in cosmetics
An India-based review on flower dye divides natural colorants into four categories: plant, insect/animal, mineral and microbial. 

“Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes are renewable, biodegradable and non-toxic. Moreover, natural colorants offer diverse practical finishing characteristics, such as insect repellent, deodorizing, antimicrobial, fluorescence and UV protection properties,” write the authors.BioPowder’s range consists of lignocellulosic powders made from sidestream ingredients such as olive pits, peach stones, almond shells, pistachio shells or argan shells.

Pink to purple hues and yellow shades from flowers are commonly used in cosmetic products, according to the study.

“One of the benefits of using natural dyes in cosmetics is that they are often safer than synthetic dyes, which have been associated with skin irritation and allergic reactions. In addition, natural dyes can provide additional benefits, such as antioxidant and antimicrobial properties,” share the authors.

Rose is used for its fragrant aroma and soothing properties in skin care, such as toners, creams and serums. Chamomile dye extract is highlighted for its anti-inflammatory properties like creams, lotions and serums for skin care.

“Commonly used natural dyes in the cosmetic industry include carotenoids from marigold and saffron, anthocyanins from flowers such as hibiscus and elderberry and chlorophyll from plants such as spinach and alfalfa,” continue the authors.

Challenges in natural dye manufacturing
The India-based study highlights the lack of a standardized process for extracting natural dyes from flowers that can result in variations in color and quality. Also, weather conditions, plant variety, harvesting time etc., can lead to inconsistencies in colors and availability.

Additionally, dye from flowers can be more expensive than synthetics; however, the authors expect the price to level off due to a rise in demand for natural solutions.

The researchers also flag that while natural flower dyes are more environmentally friendly, they also have impacts as some processes require large volumes of water and energy.

“Achieving good colorfastness with natural dyes extracted from flower crops can be a challenge, especially in outdoor applications where exposure to sunlight and weathering can cause color fading,” they add.

Carotenoids from fruit flies
In other research, an orange pigment derived from the bacterial strain B. aurantiaca M3d10 was obtained from adult olive fruit flies. 

“Carotenoids are a large group of lipophilic pigment with yellow-to-red coloring properties characterized by a wide range of biological properties; among them, the keto-carotenoid pigment astaxanthin (ASX) is known as a potent antioxidant with high potential for human health,” share the authors.

The bacteria were grown at room temperature, between 18 to 25 °C, for three days and were supplemented with 1% glucose, after which cells were scraped from the agar plate and harvested via centrifugation in sterile distilled water and then extracted with 1 mL of acetone.There is a lack of a standardized process for extracting natural dyes, according to the India-based review.

Skin-protecting astaxanthin
The B. aurantiaca M3d10 strain was found to produce ASX derivatives, which are “believed to have superior antioxidant properties compared to regular ASX.” According to the study, the derivatives protect human dermal fibroblasts in culture from UV-induced damage and oxidative stress.

“Moreover, the presence of hydroxyl groups in the molecular structure enhances their water solubility. Altogether, these characteristics make hydroxylated intermediates of ASX highly valuable for use in cosmetics,” add the authors.

“More than 95% of commercial ASX is produced by chemical synthesis from petrochemical precursors. The extraction from natural sources and biotechnological synthesis is limited by low yields and high production costs.”

Yellow dye from lichen
Separate research highlights the uses of geolashon (Teloschistes flavicans), a 1,000-year-old lichen from the Peruvian Andes, traditionally used as a natural yellow pigment for making handcrafts and medicine.

The authors share that since pre-Hispanic culture, lichens have been used as a natural dye as they vary in colors due to their symbiotic processes.

The use of geolashon dates to the time of the Incas, who applied crushed lichen on wounds for healing, share the authors. Modern research has found it to have a high antioxidant, antifungal and vicanicin capacity.

Geolashon has yet to be commercialized, and the authors believe it holds potential for food, cosmetics and pharmaceutical applications.

By Venya Patel