Microbiome-friendly solutions target skin care from inside out

The beauty industry is pushing past the skin barrier, creating microbiome-friendly products after consumers indicate a craving for skin microbiome support.

Personal Care Insights speaks to ADM, MyMicrobiome and Uute Scientific about how the clean beauty trend penetrates deeper than the skin’s surface, with cosmetics consumers and formulators highlighting the microbiome. 

Innova Market Insights data indicates a global boost in microbiome claims for personal care launches. From April 2019 to March 2024, there was 52% growth, with Europe attributing 69% of these launches. Forty-one percent of new product launches with microbiome claims were in skin care, but there is a surge of microbiome claims in sun care.

Iida Mäkelä, Scientist and Product Director of Uute Scientific says it is “all about understanding the consumer. An increasing number of consumers have long favored natural and clean raw materials to support their health and well-being.”

“The clean lifestyle began with food and has now, more than ever, made its way into cosmetics. Consumers want scientifically proven, sustainable, organic ingredients that promise tested efficacy.”

Trending “skinimalism”

Hedy Scheck, COO at MyMicrobiome, highlights the importance of  making microbiome solutions that protect the skin barrier, are preservative-free and focus on minimalist skin care (skinimalism). 

“Products that focus on preserving and strengthening the skin barrier are rising in popularity. These products avoid harsh ingredients like sulfates and alcohols, instead opting for gentle formulations with hydrating ingredients like ceramides and fatty acids to maintain microbiome health.”

Vaughn DuBow, senior director of product portfolio marketing, Health & Wellness at ADM.“Preservative-free or preservative-reduced formulations are also gaining ground, as antimicrobial ingredients can disrupt the balance of good bacteria. Brands opt for natural preservation systems like fermented extracts and packaging innovations to maintain product stability without heavy use of traditional preservatives.”

“Skinimalism” focuses on fewer, higher-quality products that nurture the skin’s natural ecosystem, reducing the risk of disrupting the microbiome through overuse of actives and harsh chemicals.

Scheck says that microbiome-friendliness will soon be a baseline expectation for all cosmetic products.

“The beauty industry is shifting from a purely cosmetic focus to promoting overall skin health and wellness. Consumers are more educated and now seek products that improve their skin’s natural functions,” according to Scheck.

This trend is dubbed skinification. Microbiome-friendly skin care aligns with this trend, working to maintain the skin’s natural microbiome rather than solely addressing skin issues.

Mäkelä adds that the general understanding of the human microbiome is growing, causing cosmetic chemists to design innovative microbiome-friendly products.

“Also, sustainable and zero-waste beauty is here to stay. New face make-up products are multifunctional and skincare-infused.”

Microbiome solutions

MyMicrobiome is developing MINCI, an AI-based check tool for microbiome-friendly ingredients.

“Having tested a vast array of microbiome-friendly products, our database today comprises several thousand ingredients which we analyzed for microbiome-friendliness. MINCI allows formulators to evaluate their ingredient list in real time, providing detailed information on the microbiome compatibility of each component. This drives that formulations align with the rising consumer preference for microbiome-friendly, safe and effective skin care,” explains Scheck.

Meanwhile, Uute Scientific’s Re-Connecting Nature extract reduced the need for atopy medication for skin diseases. A recent study showed the ingredient strengthened the skin’s protective barrier and prevented irritation in 142 participants.

“We present a biodiversity-rich ingredieADM says more consumers are being proactive about their skin care.nt that can restore nature’s diverse microbes to our skin’s transient microbiome. Our ingredient mimics the diversity of bacteria found in pure Finnish nature.”

“Skin commensals are integral to maintaining healthy skin. Our ingredient introduces natural microbial diversity to the skin without disrupting commensal microbial communities. The product is in an inactivated form, ensuring compatibility with the skin’s resident microbes, as validated by our Microbiome Friendly Certificate.”

Beauty from within

According to FMCG Gurus research, 63% of people globally are taking a proactive approach to their health.

Vaughn DuBow, senior director of product portfolio marketing, Health & Wellness at ADM, says: “This emphasis on proactive support, in addition to the growing interest in healthy aging, is driving demand for skin health support.”

“At the same time, the gut and diet are also at the top of the mind of most consumers. Microbiome-supporting solutions for skin health are disrupting the beauty-from-within sector, and we don’t see this stopping any time soon.”

DuBow explains that today’s consumers want convenient, holistic health support, including beauty and skin care. Globally, 55% of consumers seek food and drink products to improve their skin health.

Over half of global consumers state they regularly look for supplements, foods or drinks that can support skin health and aging. Hydration is another critical component of skin care for many consumers, with 62% globally stating they drink more water to support skin health.  

“This shift in behavior, coupled with research and ongoing awareness of the link between the gut and skin, has the market seeing an upward trend in ingestible beauty products that can positively impact the skin. Prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics are coming to the forefront in this regard, and those that can survive during tough formulation environments associated with developing beverages and gummies will pave the way for what’s next in microbiome skin care,” asserts DuBow.

Continuous development

Uute Scientific identifies that some players in the field still lack an understanding of the “complex microbiome.”

“Although the cosmetics industry has always been a cradle of new ingredients and technologies, the focus has strongly been on the regulated language of cosmetics, primarily studying the effects on the outermost layers of the skin, epidermis and dermis,” says Mäkelä.

“Recently, however, the role of the skin as an immunological organ and its crosstalk with the skin’s microbiome, which plays a crucial role in human well-being, has been increasingly recognized.”