Amyris fermentation plant begins production of genetically engineered skincare

24 Jun 2022 --- Amyris has begun its precision fermentation at the new facility in Barra Bonita, Brazil. The company’s Lab-to-Market technology platform is accelerating the global shift to sustainable consumption. 

Amyris expects to become the top producer of highly engineered organisms on a mass scale thanks to the greenfield facility in Barra Bonita. In order to address the rapidly expanding need for clean, environmentally sustainable, chemistry-based products for the beauty, personal care, health and wellness markets, Amyris made a strategic investment in this first-of-its-kind fermentation plant. 

The plant and production
The factory consists of five precision fermentation “mini-factories” that can simultaneously produce all 13 of the company's currently available molecules and upcoming bio-fermented goods. 

“We genetically engineer yeast and ferment it with sustainably-sourced sugarcane to produce natural, high-performance molecules,” the company says.

Skincare made with fermented ingredients contains added bacteria, which produce enzymes that break down components. Credit AmyrisNatural vanillin, sugarcane-based Reb M, squalane, squalene, hemisqualane, patchouli, and other molecules will all be produced at the plant through the end of 2023. After several years of operating under third-party capacity supply constraints, the factory will enable Amyris to more effectively meet the demand from its ingredient clients.

The chief operating officer at Amyris, Eduardo Alvarez, says that he did not expect the plant to be constructed as soon as it was given the timing of the pandemic. “Our team has delivered the precision fermentation facility for producing natural products using highly engineered organisms.”

“Over 800 people have played an important role in the execution of this project.”

What is cosmetic fermentation?
The fermentation process for skincare compounds is very similar to that of food. Similar to fermented meals, skincare that has been fermented contains added microorganisms (bacteria), which produce enzymes that break down the components.

Fruits, yeast, and herbs can all be fermented to create a skincare product. They become a serum, moisturizer or mask during the fermentation process. In comparison to products that include more chemicals, they are easily absorbed by the skin and contribute to greater results.

PersonalCareInsights recently covered fermentation and biotech in an article where industry experts explain the manufacturing process and various applications and benefits. In an interview with Annie Tsong, chief strategy officer, products and ingredients at Amyris and VP of innovation at Conagen, Casey Lippmeier explains the long-term human health benefits of working together with bacteria and yeast.

Green chemistry and biotech in spotlightTo address the increasing demand for ‘clean’ products, Amyris made a strategic investment in a fermentation plant. Credit Amyris

Solvay, a Belgian multinational chemical company, introduced two biosurfactants: Mirasoft SL L60 and Mirasoft SL A60. These are touted to be 100% biobased and biodegradable surfactants and are manufactured through a cost-efficient fermentation process to be applied in cosmetics. 

The surfactant molecules are compatible with water and oil, which makes them useful as cosmetic ingredients. 

Amid a global oil crisis, Unilever, in partnership with Geno, previously invested in its “largest” collaboration in biotechnology alternatives for unsustainable ingredients with a sum of US$120 million. They aim to commercialize and scale plant-based options for materials like palm oil and fossil fuels for ingredients used in cleaning and personal care products.

A researcher at Unilever estimates that companies may be able to reduce their carbon footprint of palm-derived ingredients by 50% with plant-based alternatives driven by technology. 

By Mieke Meintjes

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