Ancient glamor: Unearthing earliest lipstick from Bronze Age Iran

19 Feb 2024 --- Scientists have uncovered a Bronze Age lip-coloring preparation in a tiny chlorite vial excavated from southeast Iran, which provides insight into prehistoric cosmetic practices. The researchers believe the deep red cosmetic is a lip-coloring paint or paste found in the Jiroft region in Kerman province.

“The vial’s slender shape and limited thickness suggest that it could have been conveniently held in one hand together with the handle of a copper [or] bronze mirror, leaving the other hand free to use a brush or another kind of applicator,” detail the authors.

They say the cosmetic mixture bears a “striking resemblance” to modern lipstick recipes. It contains hematite that has been darkened with manganite and braunite, as well as traces of galena and anglesite. These minerals were blended with vegetal waxes and other organics.

Radiocarbon dates the cosmetic to the early second millennium BCE, which the authors say aligns with mentions in coeval Mesopotamian cuneiform texts of the “powerful” eastern-Iranian civilization of Marḫaši.

The findings emerge as Tiktok users are becoming more fascinated with ancient makeup. One makeup influencer, Erin Parsons, gained a following by posting videos of herself crushing various items, such as lapis lazuli, kaolin and shells — emulating ancient beauty rituals — to create eye shadow, foundation powder and pigments.

Mineralogical composition of the cosmetic preparation (Image credit: Study in Scientific Reports).However, netizens have been warned about the danger of heavy metals and asbestos being present in certain minerals used to make such homemade cosmetics.

When was red used on lips?
The study states that an increasing number of analytical investigations are focused on cosmetics from the Late Chalcolithic to early Bronze Age, which spans 3500–1800 BCE.

Although light-colored or white compounds dominated cosmetics, deep red pigments for lip coloring were hard to come by until recently, note the authors.

The researchers believe the cosmetic technology of the Jiroft civilization, which is most likely the ancient Marḫaši polity, makes it stand out and reveals the social and cultural subtleties of the era.

Mineral and organic fusion
The mineral makeup had a strong red color, primarily from hematite. Braunite, manganite, galena and anglesite minerals were present and vegetal fibers added complexity.

Quartz was used in the discovered cosmetics as a tempering and shimmering agent. The analysis identified vegetable waxes, phospholipid derivatives and diacylglycerol derivatives, highlighting the fusion of mineral and organic elements.

Scientists applied analytical research using X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy-energy-dispersive spectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, which revealed the mineral components of the cosmetic.The chlorite-schist vial (Image credit: Study in Scientific Reports).

Lead and lipstick
Notably, the researchers discovered that the red cosmetic had very little lead content, suggesting that the ancient artisans could have been aware of the possible risks of ingesting lead.

“While Ancient Iranian foundations, eye shadows and rouges were mainly made of lead carbonates (cerussite/hydrocerussite) added with fine chromatically tuned colored preparations, the newly discovered cosmetic, as observed above, has minimal amounts of lead minerals,” detail the authors.

“The contrast between the abundant use of lead-based substances apparently intended for the skin and much less in this red paint might suggest the makers of cosmetics were aware of the potential dangers of direct oral lead ingestion.”

The study, “A Bronze Age lip-paint from southeastern Iran,” is published in Scientific Reports, Nature.

Ancient cosmetics
Researchers recently recreated a scent used in mummifying an Egyptian noblewoman who lived thousands of years ago. The found balms were the “richest, most complex” yet identified from the period and were presented as an inspiration for today’s perfumers.

Another discovery revealed a perfume’s chemical composition dating back to Roman times, which researchers say “may be the first time a perfume from that era has been identified.”

In October, biotechnology firm Arcaea launched a fragrance brand called Future Society with the debut of its Scent Surrection Collection — six perfumes derived from the sequenced DNA of extinct flowers.

By Venya Patel

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