Antioxidant armor: Olive extracts enriched with spirulina or clementine peels to elevate skin health
11 Jun 2024 --- Two studies in Cosmetics examine olive plant extracts for cosmetic applications. One shows the efficacy of olive extract combined with Spirulina sp. for reducing oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. The other research explores upcycling clementine peels and olive leaf extracts in face creams.
Innova Market Insights data indicates a +44% average annual growth in product launches with plant-based claims from October 2018 to September 2023. Beauty and personal care launches tracked with natural and organic claims grew by 9% between July 2017 and June 2022. Europe led the way at 61%.
Powerhouse ingredients
Olive extract and Spirulina sp. are known for their antioxidant properties. Olive extract is rich in hydroxytyrosol and polyphenols and offers emollient, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial benefits. Spirulina sp. is a nutrient-dense microalga with high protein content, vitamins and minerals.
The first study found the formulation containing olive extract and Spirulina sp. increased skin hydration and “significantly” improved the skin barrier. Spirulina sp. was linked to enhanced hydration and skin barrier function, as seen in previous studies that promoted similar benefits on mature skin.
The formulation with olive extract and Spirulina sp. significantly improves skin hydration and barrier function.
“The use of extracts of natural origin and microalgae in cosmetic formulations is important to increase the benefits of the formulation. However, it is a challenge for formulators to obtain stable formulations. As olive extract is a potent antioxidant, it was necessary to add an antioxidant in the formulation to prevent oxidation of the extract and improve the stability of the active,” detail the authors.
Clinically-backed
The study involved 31 women (ages 39 to 60) who showed signs of photoaging. Participants were divided into two groups, one using the combined active substances and the other applying sunscreen daily.
According to the clinical evaluation, skin hydration, barrier function and epidermal characteristics improved after 12 weeks of application. Notably, the brightness of the stratum corneum increased, suggesting a film-forming effect.
Furthermore, the group that used the formulation with olive antioxidants showed improvements in the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum quality scores. The authors noted that increased inter-keratinocyte reflectance and skin brightness indicated deeper skin hydration, which is important for cell renewal and maintaining skin health.
In vivo tests confirm the safety and skin compatibility of face creams formulated with clementine peel and olive leaf extracts.
Antioxidant benefits
Researchers in a separate study of upcycling clementine peels and olive leaves address food waste and introduce sustainable and eco-friendly practices into the cosmetic industry. They reveal that the extracts show promising antioxidant properties and maintain stability in formulations, making them viable alternatives to conventional cosmetic ingredients.
The research highlights the extraction of bioactive compounds from clementine peels and olive leaves using CO2 supercritical fluid extraction, a method known for its efficiency and environmental benefits.
Researchers say the extracts had an antioxidant activity of around 25%, important for neutralizing free radicals and preventing skin aging. They observed no cytotoxic effects on keratinocyte cells (in the epidermis) at concentrations up to 4% volume per volume over 24 hours, indicating safe use in skin care products.
The creams remained stable at room temperature and extreme storage conditions (40°C), confirming that incorporating these natural ingredients does not compromise the product’s quality.
Consumer tests
To assess the safety and skin compatibility of the final cosmetic formulations, additional in vivo tests were carried out on human volunteers. Researchers examined trans-epidermal water loss and changes in the erythematous index to check their effects on skin barrier function and irritation.
The formulations containing clementine peel and olive leaf extracts showed similar profiles to the negative control, suggesting they are safe for human use.
The creams were well-received, with participants noting their pleasant texture and natural scent, enhanced using bergamot water waste.
By Venya Patel
