Are CBD-based cosmetics safe? EU seeks data from cosmetic industry
09 Jun 2023 --- The European Commission (EC) is seeking data on CBD used in cosmetic products as several EU member states and civil society organizations are raising questions concerning its potential risk for consumer health. As there is limited available information on the safety of cosmetics containing CBD, manufacturers, ingredient producers and industry members have till the end of September to submit their responses to fill in the knowledge gap.
The commission is requesting information on CBD in its pure form, including data on trace contaminants such as THC or delta-9-THC, which are the psychoactive components of marijuana that are filtered out of formulations. This includes CBD’s physicochemical properties, toxicokinetics and toxicological endpoints and exposure assessment through consumer products.
Contributors can also suggest safe concentrations of CBD and set limits for trace levels.
In addition, the EC is also requesting the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) to perform a safety assessment of CBD when used in cosmetic products, including the THC trace levels or other hemp and cannabis-derived ingredients.
Pushing for clearer definitions
This follows case C663/181 on November 19, 2020, at the Court of Justice of the EU (CJEU), responding to a request to prohibit the marketing of CBD extracted from the Cannabis sativa plant. 
Contributors can also suggest safe concentrations of CBD and set limits for trace levels.
The judgment concluded that CBD should not be considered a drug under the UN Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs of 1961. This court ruling only referred to CBD in general, without other substances included in it.
The court emphasized that CBD is not mentioned in the Convention on Psychotropic Substances, and it does not appear to have any psychotropic effect or harmful effect on human health. However, the judgment did not determine the purity level at which CBD can be considered safe, including assessments of safe THC content or other relevant substances.
It is essential to know the safe level of purity and contaminants as THC and its stereochemical variants are drugs according to the 1971 Convention on Psychotropic Substances.
WHO affirms low toxicity risk
CBD is only one of the approximately 100 naturally occurring cannabinoids found in cannabis plants and may account for up to 40% of the plant’s extract, notes the EC.
The ingredients are included in the EU database cosmetic substances and ingredients (CosIng) with function skin conditioning, skin protection, antioxidant, anti-sebum etc. However, in the Union law, there is no definition of CBD applicable to cosmetic products, nor is it regulated in Cosmetic Regulation No 1223/2009.
According to the WHO Expert Committee on Drug Dependence (ECDD), “CBD is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid that exhibits no effects indicative of any abuse or dependence potential.” They also state that CBD has relatively low toxicity, while stressing that not all potential effects have been explored.
For medical use, most EU countries allow or are considering allowing cannabinoids (including CBD) in some form under specified conditions.
It is essential to know the safe level of purity and contaminants as THC and its stereochemical variants are drugs.
An evolving sector drives regulatory shifts
As cannabis-based formulations are gaining traction within the beauty industry, researchers from Portugal unveiled that personal values such as openness to change and environmental conservation indirectly influence the acceptance of cannabis-derived cosmetic products.
In related stories, CBD Move Free partnered with carbon-neutral and ingredient provider Novvi to create a line of CBD relief products. The line infuses Novvi’s plant-based oils and the moisturizing emollient Luxtra.
A multi-year supply agreement was reached between specialty chemicals company Evonik and biotech player Demetrix to expand the role of cannabinoid bioactives in beauty and personal care products last year.
Also, Sunshine Botanicals unveiled its Extreme Hydration Soothing Skin Butter to alleviate dry, inflamed and damaged skin conditions, containing botanical extracts and full-spectrum CBD.
In regulatory news, Japan’s move to potentially legalize medical marijuana may pave the way to open up the CBD industry as demand for stress-relieving products grows. Last year, the government of Hong Kong pushed for the prohibition of CBD via legislation.
By Venya Patel
