Australian research explores phytosphingosine-based ceramide formulations for atopic skin care

01 Apr 2024 --- The Department of Scientific Affairs, Ego Pharmaceuticals in Australia studies the structural and functional features of key phytosphingosine-based ceramides (CERs) — notably CER[EOP], CER[NP] and CER[AP] — and their role in atopic skin health.

The research discusses how the stratum corneum (SC) lipids maintain skin barrier homeostasis and contribute to the skin’s barrier function regarding its cohesiveness and resilience. It considers the usefulness of CER[EOP], CER[NP] and CER[AP] in preserving skin hydration and protecting and repairing dry, itchy or sensitive skin.

The authors explore how and to what extent an imbalance or inadequate amounts of CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP] contribute to the characteristics of atopic skin diseases like eczema. Furthermore, they discuss the importance of complementary SC resident lipids such as cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are seen as crucial for optimal CER function.

They claim it may soon be possible to formulate a wide range of atopic skin care products with sufficient CER diversity in “a balanced, optimal combination” with conventional moisturizers, CHOL, FFAs and CER-boosting ingredients for a specific condition or disease.

CERs to help eczema
According to the study, skin CERs are heterogeneous and complex lipid entities that maintain skin barrier function. Barrier dysfunction in skin conditions and diseases, including eczema, occurs due to alternative pathophysiology and diverse changes to skin lipids, including phytosphingosine-based CER levels and their composition, structure, organization and function.

Researchers claim it could be possible to formulate a wide range of atopic skin care products with sufficient CER diversity.Previous studies have shown that delivering topical CERs in balanced and optimal combination with CHOL and FFAs — while supporting and boosting the endogenous biosynthesis of CERs using ingredients such as niacinamide and lactic acid — helps relieve symptoms of atopic diseases to provide some measure of relief.

The research looks at some emerging ingredients that can complement the science of CERs in healthy and diseased skin. Many current barrier-protective CER-based formulations incorporate phytosphingosine-based CERs since, when applied exogenously, they may help to maintain or restore skin CER levels, which in turn may help improve skin barrier function and increase skin hydration.

The study’s authors assert that as CERs become more ubiquitous, it is “essential to understand not only their importance to skin functionality but also find the best way to incorporate them into skin care products correctly — and subsequently into the existing SC membrane and lipid structures — to support and maintain proper barrier function, not hinder it.”

CERs with other ingredients
They continue that the best approach is to supply the skin with the correct CER subclasses in the proper ratio to support barrier function and repair and to support the internal production of CERs by including complementary ingredients such as niacinamide and lactic acid.

The study concludes that despite CERs playing a crucial role in the integrity of SC, further research and more robust scientific evidence are “fundamental” to pinpoint why and under what conditions CER-based formulations could be more effective than formulations lacking CERs.

By Sabine Waldeck

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