Biodegradable beauty ingredients: Advances in vegan silk protein, biopolymers and fermentation-based solutions

18 Jun 2024 --- Biodegradability remains a critical aspect in measuring an ingredient’s environmental impact. The latest innovation highlights include advances in vegan silk protein, fermented ingredients from “unexpected places in nature” and biopolymers based on renewable feedstocks.

Personal Care Insights connects with key industry suppliers Givaudan Active Beauty, CP Kelco and BASF to learn more about their latest activities in this space.

Yohan Rolland, head of category for Specialties, Givaudan Active Beauty, tells us: “Consumers are increasingly concerned about the fate of products after they have been used and their impact on the environment. Studies indicate that 79% of people worldwide consider biodegradability important for ‘natural’ products.”

Innova Market Insights data indicates 9% average annual growth in personal care launches with biodegradable ingredient claims from 2019 to 2023. Seventy-three percent of the launches were in Europe. Half of the launches were in the Hand, Bath & Shower category. Two in three launches with biodegradable ingredients also came in sustainable packaging.

“Biodegradable ingredients can deliver high performance,” comments Marina Boldrini, senior marketing manager at CP Kelco. “One example is our Arbalon Cellulose Liquid, a fermentation-derived cellulose that was specifically developed with different attributes than other types of cellulose.”

“Its unique fiber structure is capable of providing suspension and stability even in high-surfactant or low-water personal care formulations without impacting viscosity. Applications might include gel exfoliants or serums that deliver a radiant glow.”

Vegan silk protein
Givaudan Active Beauty’s latest launches across its Actives and Specialties portfolios are positioned as highly biodegradable, including a recent innovation in vegan silk protein. “Silk-iCare, a revolutionary vegan silk protein, is 100% biodegradable and delivers visible skin perfection results within 15 minutes, as demonstrated in clinical studies,” notes Rolland.

Givaudan Active Beauty introduces a biotech-based biodegradable polymer, Silk-iCare, for reducing pore size and breakouts (Image credit: Givaudan).Silk-iCare is said to reduce pore size and halve the number of breakouts and inflammatory elements in acne-prone skin. “This film-former also protects the skin from pollution and enhances pigment fixation in makeup,” adds Rolland.

Produced by biotechnology, the ingredient is a protein-based polymer with “excellent biocompatibility” and “no impact on the environment.” “There is no compromise between performance and biodegradability,” says Rolland. 

Silk-iCare can be used in skin care (gels and emulsions), hair care, body care and makeup.

“Biodegradability is not a disadvantage, it’s an opportunity,” stresses Rolland. “At Givaudan Active Beauty, we are working to break down the barriers faced by formulators and regulatory teams.”

“After several successful cases of replacing synthetic molecules with natural ones, we are now in a position to leverage biodegradability to drive new innovations.”

Givaudan Active Beauty aims to identify and improve all aspects of its ingredients through the 16 Product Environmental Footprint indicators. 

“We have conducted numerous life cycle assessments of our ingredients, enabling us to measure and reduce our environmental impact through process improvements and increased yields,” says Rolland.

High-performance biopolymers
BASF supports cosmetic formulators to find their biodegradable solutions via an “enhanced digital experience” featured in its online platform D’lite.

Peter Weinert, vice president of Business Management Personal Care Europe, Middle East and Africa, highlights BASF’s recently unveiled digital service called Ingredients Revealed, enabling users to calculate the biodegradability of their formulations.

“Within BASF Personal Care’s activities, our development team has focused its efforts on building a holistic portfolio of high-performance biopolymers. Many formulations rely on the performance of polymers to achieve the desired sensorial profile or the right styling properties,” he notes.

“The fact that most polymers are not biodegradable is contrasting the growing consumer demand for natural cosmetics and prompting personal care manufacturers to find eco-conscious alternatives.”

Under BASF’s new trademark Verdessence, the supplier has launched five different biopolymers made from renewable feedstocks for applications ranging from color cosmetics to hair care solutions. 

This portfolio includes Verdessence Glucomannan, a natural rheology modifier derived from the tuber of the konjac plant. It is suitable for aqueous systems like gels, fluids and serums as well as novel formats such as patches, jellies and peel-off formulations.

BASF supports cosmetic formulators to find their biodegradable solutions through its digital service D’lite.Next in the portfolio is the plant-based sensory powder Verdessence RiceTouch. It has a small particle size that lends a powdery, light and smooth sensation to the skin, making it perfect for matte-type cosmetics.

Based on algae, Verdessence Alginate is a “versatile” rheology modifier, sensory enhancer and setting biopolymer, while Verdessence Xanthan efficiently thickens and stabilizes emulsions and surfactant-based formulations for face, hair, body and oral care as well as cleansing products, and is suitable for “crystal clear solutions.”

Rounding up the range is Verdessence Tara, a 100% plant-based rheology modifier that creates smooth and shapely textures.

Accordingly, they are approved by COSMOS and Natrue, are readily biodegradable and have “good eco-toxicological profiles.”

Out with cyclosiloxanes 
Silicones are another group of products that are under increasing pressure with regard to their biodegradability, BASF’s Weinert notes. In particular, volatile cyclosiloxanes (D4, D5 and D6) are on the way out of the cosmetics industry, he addresses. 

“We are creating a portfolio of sustainable alternatives — i.e, without the use of silicones — and not just the materials that the regulators are currently focusing on,” he adds.

“Fully replacing silicones puts manufacturers in a strong position, because their formulations are ahead of whatever regulations might be introduced for silicones in cosmetics, anytime and anywhere in the world.”

“One such example is our Cetiol Ultimate, an ultra-fast-spreading and volatile emollient based on renewable resources. With this D5 alternative, a wide range of applications and claims can be covered, spanning from very light oil-in-water emulsions, sun protection formulations and smooth dry body oils to fresh facial foundations and glossy hair oils.”

Due to its volatile properties, skin and hair leave-on products with Cetiol Ultimate are “easy to apply, absorb quickly and leave a smooth, dry feel,” BASF highlights. The 100% renewable-based, volatile hydrocarbon is readily biodegradable and approved by COSMOS and Natrue.

Upcycled citrus fiber and seaweed
CP Kelco’s Kelcosens Citrus Fiber is highlighted among its biodegradable solutions portfolio as the first citrus fiber on the market to be certified as upcycled. The US-based supplier’s circular operation uses spent citrus peels, a byproduct of the juice industry. It returns leftovers from the process back to nature in the form of fertilizer and animal feed for farmers.

The Kelcosens ingredient was developed to help formulators stabilize emulsifier-free skin care and deliver sensational textures. 

CP Kelco’s Genu Pectin, another “easily recognizable” ingredient, is a biodegradable solution also upcycled from citrus peels. “It is exceptionally mild and helps the skin’s acid mantle protect its pH balance against environmental pollutants and moisture loss,” says Boldrini.

“We are excited about bioactive film formation opportunities using pectin as a delivery system for nanoemulsions and how it can support sustainability goals.”

CP Kelco upcycles citrus fiber into biodegradable stabilizing solution for skin care (Image credit: CP Kelco).Among other biodegradable options, CP Kelco’s Genu Carrageenans are extracted from red seaweed. “Genu Carrageenan offers efficient water-binding, gelling, stabilizing and thickening capabilities to replace synthetic ingredients in a wide range of applications, from toothpaste, skin care and hair care to personal care products,” highlights Boldrini.

“Because biodegradability concerns are part of the larger issue of minimizing environmental impact at a product’s end of life, we are proud that our personal care ingredient portfolio meets OECD 301B and 311 ready/ultimate biodegradability testing.”

Fermenting from “unexpected places in nature”
CP Kelco also believes in microbial fermentation as a potential solution for driving the shift away from petroleum-based ingredients within the personal care industry. 

“We pioneered research into polysaccharide-producing bacteria, such as those used to produce diutan gum, gellan gum, xanthan gum and fermentation-derived cellulose,” details Boldrini.

“We produce Kelcogel Gellan Gum, Arbalon Cellulose Liquid, Kelco-Care Diutan Gum and Keltrol and Keldent Xanthan Gums through fermentation of microorganisms found in unexpected places in nature, such as lily pond plants, cabbage leaves and the forest floor.”

She adds that the “highly efficient” fermentation-derived rheology modifiers can provide emulsion stabilization, suspension and diverse skin sensations with vegan, non-GMO, kosher, halal and COSMOS-compliant grades readily available.

“We work with customers to provide formulation support for new, low-water and waterless formats in skin care and home care,” Boldrini continues. “More than a buzzword, this trend can help companies meet United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.”

“It also can potentially reduce plastic packaging waste and shipping emissions while consumers seem to appreciate the convenience it offers for travel.”

By Benjamin Ferrer