Cellugy challenges petrochemical dependency with biotech alternative

Danish biotechnology start-up Cellugy and skin care company Bioli have launched a day cream formulated with Cellugy’s cellulose-based ingredient, EcoFlexy. The biodegradable, biofabricated, fossil-free ingredient seeks to offer an environmentally conscious alternative to petrochemical ingredients to address growing consumer demand and regulatory pressure.

The product, Moisturizing and Protecting Day Cream, marks the first commercial application of EcoFlexy — a re-dispersable powder form of biofabricated cellulose derived from the bioconversion and fermentation of sugar into crystalline cellulose.

According to the company, petrochemicals dominate over 70% of personal care products due to their functional properties, such as stabilizing formulations and creating smooth textures. However, their environmental impact, including contributions to climate change and microplastic pollution, has led to tightening regulations and growing consumer rejection.

Personal Care Insights speaks to Dr. Isabel Alvarez-Martos, CEO and co-founder of Cellugy, about the ingredient and how it fits into the industry’s current landscape.

“The beauty industry faces a formidable challenge in transitioning away from petrochemicals. Finding sustainable alternatives that match the performance of synthetic ingredients is complex and costly.”

Bioli and Cellugy’s brainchild

Bioli’s Moisturizing and Protecting Day Cream is formulated for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and made with 100% biodegradable ingredients. Cellugy’s EcoFlexy acts as a sustainable rheology modifier, enhancing the cream’s texture and stability without petrochemicals.

The brand says the ingredient provides a “smooth” feel while preserving active ingredients and offering antioxidant protection.

Cosmetic ingredients like acrylic acid copolymers, PEG, and polyurethane are often sourced from oil refining processes.“The transition to fully bio-based formulations has presented challenges. While natural alternatives are promising, they often haven’t matched the performance of their synthetic counterparts,” says Alvarez-Martos.

Alvarez-Martos lists challenges like formulation compatibility, texture, and efficacy as common factors that hinder fully bio-based product development, which she says often leads to the incorporation of synthetic ingredients.

“Ecoflexy’s compatibility with various formulation types, from surfactants to emulsion-based systems, across a wide pH range and formulation ingredients, gives formulators the flexibility to create personalized products for specific skin types or preferences,” Alvarez-Martos adds. 

Replacing petrochemicals

Alvarez-Martos explains that petrochemicals present a complex dilemma for the beauty industry. “On one hand, they are instrumental in delivering the high-performance products consumers crave, providing desirable qualities like smooth textures, long-lasting wear, and effective application.”

Ingredients like acrylic acid copolymers, polyethylene glycol, polyurethane, and silicone oils are ubiquitous in cosmetic formulations, creating a deeply ingrained reliance on petrochemicals in the industry’s current formulation processes.

“However, the environmental and potential health implications are undeniable. Derived from fossil fuels, they contribute to climate change and plastic pollution. Microplastics, in particular, pose a significant threat to aquatic life and, ultimately, to the human food chain,” she continues.

Alvarez-Martos asserts that bio-fabricated cellulose offers several advantages to skin care formulations. Beyond substitution, she says the company’s fermentation platform allows for the creation of tailored, customizable ingredients that target specific skin care and hair care needs.

“This means we can create ingredients with unique functionalities and performance characteristics.”

Alvarez-Martos says Cellugy’s view of ingredient innovation adopts a holistic approach to biology rather than “simply swapping out one chemical for another.” EcoFlexy is made of cellulose derived from the fermentation of sugar into crystalline cellulose.

Scaling sustainable innovation

As Cellugy prepares to scale EcoFlexy for mass-market adoption, it emphasizes ethical production and collaboration. “We are fortunate to be working with excellent collaborators who understand the importance of a rapid yet lean scale-up,” says Alvarez-Martos.

Cellugy plans to launch EcoFlexy commercially in April 2025 at the In-cosmetics Global exhibition in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

“EcoFlexy has the potential to significantly impact regulations like the EU’s microplastics ban. This ban targets insoluble, persistent plastic particles that can accumulate in the environment. Because EcoFlexy is bio-based and biodegradable, it offers a compelling alternative to these problematic microplastics,” Alvarez-Martos explains.

“EcoFlexy offers a pathway for brands to proactively move away from microplastics and embrace a more sustainable future, aligning themselves with both regulatory trends and consumer preferences.”