Coriander essential oil holds significant anti-wrinkle properties, research finds
26 Apr 2022 --- Coriander oil in pharmaceutical dosage forms has been found to possess anti-wrinkle properties that improve external signs of aging and UV light-induced stress, finds Egypt-based researchers.
“Coriander oil formulations possessed potent anti-aging potential through the inhibition of various cell signaling pathways and potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” concludes the study.
The study aimed to test the biochemical effects and the cosmetic potential of apiaceous essential oils (fennel, anise, cumin, and coriander), traditionally used in skincare, by evaluating the anti-wrinkle properties.
The in-vitro test shares: “The skin aging-related enzyme assays revealed that coriander oil showed the highest inhibitory activity of tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase compared to fennel, anise, and cumin.”
Essential oils and UV-protection
“Essential oils are frequently used in cosmetics products due to a wide range of biological activities and their pleasant odor,” state the researchers.
Additionally, researchers share a rise in the need for cosmetic medications that reduce skin aging and improve skin appearance.
Coriander oil showed the highest inhibitory activity of tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase compared to fennel, anise and cumin.
“Essential oils and their components have long been listed in traditional medicine and aromatherapy as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals with reported anti-aging potentiality.”
High UV light exposure can cause natural antioxidant defense mechanisms to be overwhelmed – this induces damage to cellular components by free radicals. “Therefore, essential oils continue to trend upwards as they are safe and possess several therapeutic properties.”
With a test carried out on mice, the researchers found that coriander oil in both cream and Coriander Essential Oil-loaded Lipid Nanoparticles (CEONLC) nanoemulgel formulation improved the skin appearance compared to the UV-injured group.
Moreover, the research flags that high-quality essential oils are often costly, suggesting coriander oil as an economical alternative.
Inhibiting skin-damaging enzymes
Researchers found that Coriander oil showed the highest inhibition of the elastase enzyme (wrinkle-causing) activity, followed by the oil of cumin, anise and fennel.
“UV radiation activates the elastin promoter leading to the accumulation of poorly organized elastin (solar elastosis) in the skin,” explains the paper.
“Groups treated with coriander oil preparation showed a significant reduction in elastin levels compared to the UV- injured group.”
“Coriander oil cream and CEOLNs formulations attenuated in vivo UV-induced skin photoaging were manifested by significantly decreased MDA, COX-2, PGE-2, MMP-1, JNK, and AP-1 levels,” details the study.
Tyrosinase, which increases skin pigmentation and melanin production, is highly inhibited by coriander oil (IC50 = 34.14 ± 2.1 µg/mL) compared to the standard kojic acid (IC50 = 52.0 ± 2.6 µg/mL).
Oil of cumin, anise, and fennel showed lower inhibitory activity of tyrosinase than coriander, with fennel being the lowest.
Oxygenated monoterpenes for fragrance 
Coriander oil has a high concentration of oxygenated monoterpenes at 90.38%.
Coriander essential oil was found to have very high levels of oxygenated monoterpenes (contributing to flavor and aroma) and linalool at 81.29%. Linalool is used in formulations for cosmetics, perfumes, soaps and household cleaners.
“Coriander oil showed a relatively high concentration of oxygenated monoterpenes (90.38%), mostly attributable to linalool,” shares the researchers.
“While in cumin oil, both monoterpenes and oxygenated monoterpenes represented the main constituents with 39.66 and 59.3%, respectively. Anise oil exhibited a high concentration of oxygenated monoterpenes, representing 92%, owing to anethole (91.8%).
Nanocosmetic formulations
The researchers highlight that nanomaterials-based cosmetic products are more beneficial than “conventional cosmetic products.”
“Many nanoproducts were developed in the cosmetic industry such as metallic nanoparticles (silver nanoparticles and gold nanoparticles), solid lipid nanoparticles, liposomes, nanoemulsions and nanogels.”
They offer advantages when used in cosmetic oils for better skin penetration and higher stability of the final formulation. “The market sales of nanocosmetic formulations are predicted to exceed US$55.3 billion by the current year,” notes the study.
“Nanocosmetic products are developed to treat different problems, such as skin aging and hyperpigmentation and hair damage and fall. Nanoformulation encapsulating oils offer the potential of higher penetration to the deeper layers of the skin; therefore, anti-aging agents like vitamin E, retinol, and vitamin C showed higher efficacy when delivered in the form of nanoformulation.”
Edited by Venya Patel
