Cultivation-free fragrances: Debut replicates rare molecules with plant cell biotech

Biotech beauty company Debut has introduced a plant cell platform that replicates rare and complex fragrance molecules without the need for cultivation.

Unlike traditional sourcing methods, Debut’s biotechnology platform can recreate fragrance compounds in less than a year using fermentation-based processes. This eliminates the environmental and supply chain challenges of natural extraction.

“Complex fragrance ingredients can be replicated rapidly, sustainably, and cost-effectively in safe and highly controlled conditions that expend minimal energy,” Joshua Britton, PhD, founder and CEO of Debut, tells Personal Care Insights.

“With climate change impacting the molecular composition of cultivated ingredients, the fragrance industry is increasingly looking to biotechnology to produce sustainable alternatives.”

The first ingredient produced through this method is orris, one of the most prized and expensive perfume ingredients. Derived from the iris root, it is valued at up to US$100,000 per kilogram.

The company is working with several fragrance players to bring the platform to scale and expand into additional ingredients such as vetiver.

Fragrance without farming

Debut’s technology enables the production of fragrance molecules without growing or harvesting the original plant. The process begins with the seed of a chosen plant, which is used to create stable plant cell cultures. These cultures are then fermented to produce the desired scent molecules.

Britton explains that traditional fermentation is effective at producing single, high-purity compounds. However, fragrance ingredients often consist of hundreds of molecules in varying ratios. This complexity gives perfumery ingredients their rich and nuanced scent profiles.

Traditionally, orris takes up to five years to mature and can cost up to US$100,000 per kilogram.“Complex fragrance ingredients such as these cannot be made via a single precision fermentation process as they require the creation of a broad variety of different compounds at different ratios,” he says.

Debut’s plant cell biotechnology is designed to replicate the complete molecular profile of complex fragrance ingredients with “a high degree of purity and precision.” 

Britton says that Debut has achieved proof of concept with orris, one of perfumery’s most rare ingredients. The compound takes up to five years to mature in traditional cultivation.

Environmental benefits

Although natural ingredients are often perceived as eco-friendly, their cultivation can be highly resource-intensive and environmentally damaging.

The fragrance industry depends on plant-derived materials that frequently require vast amounts of land, water, and energy to produce — all while generating significant waste.

“Plant cell culture uses zero pesticides, produces minimal waste, requires minimal carbon dioxide, land, and water, and uses no harsh chemicals,” Britton says.

Frankincense, a resin widely used in fragrances and wellness products, is increasingly at risk of extinction due to unsustainable harvesting practices. Growing demand has led to intensified tapping of Boswellia trees in East Africa, threatening the species’ survival. One study estimates that if current practices continue, up to 90% of these trees could disappear by 2060.

Debut’s plant cell biotechnology offers the fragrance industry a way to access high-quality, pure, and consistently formulated renewable ingredients without relying on natural extraction or petroleum-based methods.

Debut’s platform aims to reduce pressure on wild-sourced ingredients such as frankincense.

Unlocking potential

Plant cell biotechnology replicates rare natural scents and opens the door to new fragrance possibilities, according to Britton.

He explains that the technology will make it easier to access ingredients from plants that are difficult or slow to grow, “inspiring perfumers to reach new heights of creativity.” The technology will also create new ingredients that will “confer differentiation and new functionality to fragrance formulas.”

“Together with our artificial intelligence capabilities, Debut’s plant cell biotechnology will help fragrance houses transition to novel, safe, and higher-performing biotech fragrance ingredients, underpinned by clinical testing,” Britton adds.

Looking ahead, Britton sees the convergence of AI and biotechnology leading to the discovery of neuroscents. These are functional fragrances designed to trigger physiological responses and support emotional well-being.

“There are many exciting developments to look forward to in fragrance,” he concludes.