Debut creates bio-based carmine pigment as beetle-derived alternative
Debut has launched a bio-manufactured carmine pigment that boasts antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Traditionally sourced from cochineal beetles, the bio-based pigment replicates the shade and vibrancy of the animal source.
The pigment is used in makeup formulation like lipstick to give products a rich, red color.
Debut says its pigment is free from a specific protein found in beetle-derived carmine that causes skin irritation, making it suitable for beauty and food applications.
Joshua Britton, PhD, founder and CEO at Debut, says: “There have been several colorants that have been used as replacements to cochineal-derived carmine, but nothing beats the shade, power, stability, and vibrancy of carmine in lipstick. Debut’s bio-carmine is the same ingredient found in nature.”
According to Debut, the biosynthetic product features a new family of enzymes that helped find the color — a product researchers have tried to find for 15 years. The biotech company combined patented microbial production systems with cell-free biomanufacturing to overcome industrial limitations, meaning the pigment is scalable for use in the beauty industry.
An ancient color from modern tech
Carmine produced from crushed beetles was used in the Mayan and Aztec empires. It is estimated that 70,000 cochineal beetles are needed to make a fifth of one pound of carminic acid. Debut’s biotech alternative is a 95% pure source, versus the industry average of 30% or lower.
Debut says that there are no eco-friendly alternatives to the ancient color currently on the market that offer the same vibrance as the original. Some researchers have expressed concerns that synthetic carmine replacements can be carcinogenic, with Red No.3 synthetic dye banned from food and drug products by the FDA in January 2025.
Carmine is used in makeup formulation like lipstick to give products a rich, red color. “Carmine is one of the hardest molecules to innovate. We have discovered a renewable carmine that enables us to go from sugar to this molecule. Many teams have tried to manufacture carmine over the years with no success due to the complexity and cost of inputs,” adds Britton.
Bio-manufacturing breakthroughs
Bio-based ingredients are trending in the personal care industry due to their natural appeal, health benefits, and alignment with consumer demand for cleaner, safer, and environmentally friendly products.
Debut recently spoke to Personal Care Insights about the launch of its BeautyORB AI platform. It formulated bio-based ingredients to address inflammaging and epidermal barrier repair issues and is set to calculate two biotech ingredients annually.
Moreover, ectoin is becoming increasingly used as a bio-based ingredient in the personal care industry. Known as an extremolyte, the biotechnology-driven ingredient is a 100% natural molecule produced by extremophilic microorganisms — organisms that thrive in extreme environments such as salt lakes and deserts.
